

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training
Jun 9, 2021
Chapters
Transcript
Episode notes
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32
Introduction
00:00 • 4min
How to Train Yourself to Climb Better
03:39 • 3min
The Latest and Greatest on Finger Training
06:44 • 2min
How to Stay on Top of What's New and Relevant in Training
08:25 • 4min
How to Use LPTs to Strengthen Your Strength
12:29 • 3min
How to Be a Successful Climbing Instructor
15:41 • 2min
How Many Times a Week Do You Recommend Someone Hangboard?
17:41 • 3min
The Importance of Finger Training
20:45 • 2min
How Long Should You Wait Before Reloading Your Connective Tissues?
22:21 • 2min
The Benefits of Hangboard Training
24:19 • 2min
The Benefits of Fingerboarding for Climbers
26:46 • 2min
How to Train Your Fingers to Improve Your Climbing Grade
28:46 • 3min
How to Choose the Right Grips for Your Fingers
31:28 • 2min
How to Choose the Right Position for Your Body
33:38 • 2min
Closed Crimping and Injury
35:54 • 2min
How to Measure the Distance of the End Bone on the Finger
37:35 • 3min
How to Train Your Fingers to Climb Better
40:14 • 2min
The History of the 20 Millimeter Edge
42:02 • 3min
How to Train Your Fingers on a Larger Edge Size
44:38 • 2min
How to Predict ACL Injuries in Female Athletes
46:40 • 2min
The Importance of Mind Body Connection in Climbing
48:14 • 2min
The Importance of Engaging Your Back Muscles While Hanging
50:37 • 3min
Should I Stop Training My Fingers?
53:12 • 2min
How to Hang on Your Fingers
55:24 • 2min
How to Use an SMO2 Monitor to Measure Your Oxygen Use and Recovery Rate
57:37 • 4min
The Importance of Training History in Sports Performance
01:01:08 • 3min
How to Find the Right Dosage for Your Strength Training
01:04:25 • 2min
How Long Should You Rest to Train Strength?
01:06:20 • 4min
How to Reduce Finger Mobility After Exercise
01:10:23 • 3min
How to Balance Your Climbing
01:13:00 • 3min
How to Stop Doing the Rice Bucket
01:16:27 • 2min
Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training During Pregnancy
01:18:15 • 2min