The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

Jun 9, 2021
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Episode notes
1
Introduction
00:00 • 4min
2
How to Train Yourself to Climb Better
03:39 • 3min
3
The Latest and Greatest on Finger Training
06:44 • 2min
4
How to Stay on Top of What's New and Relevant in Training
08:25 • 4min
5
How to Use LPTs to Strengthen Your Strength
12:29 • 3min
6
How to Be a Successful Climbing Instructor
15:41 • 2min
7
How Many Times a Week Do You Recommend Someone Hangboard?
17:41 • 3min
8
The Importance of Finger Training
20:45 • 2min
9
How Long Should You Wait Before Reloading Your Connective Tissues?
22:21 • 2min
10
The Benefits of Hangboard Training
24:19 • 2min
11
The Benefits of Fingerboarding for Climbers
26:46 • 2min
12
How to Train Your Fingers to Improve Your Climbing Grade
28:46 • 3min
13
How to Choose the Right Grips for Your Fingers
31:28 • 2min
14
How to Choose the Right Position for Your Body
33:38 • 2min
15
Closed Crimping and Injury
35:54 • 2min
16
How to Measure the Distance of the End Bone on the Finger
37:35 • 3min
17
How to Train Your Fingers to Climb Better
40:14 • 2min
18
The History of the 20 Millimeter Edge
42:02 • 3min
19
How to Train Your Fingers on a Larger Edge Size
44:38 • 2min
20
How to Predict ACL Injuries in Female Athletes
46:40 • 2min
21
The Importance of Mind Body Connection in Climbing
48:14 • 2min
22
The Importance of Engaging Your Back Muscles While Hanging
50:37 • 3min
23
Should I Stop Training My Fingers?
53:12 • 2min
24
How to Hang on Your Fingers
55:24 • 2min
25
How to Use an SMO2 Monitor to Measure Your Oxygen Use and Recovery Rate
57:37 • 4min
26
The Importance of Training History in Sports Performance
01:01:08 • 3min
27
How to Find the Right Dosage for Your Strength Training
01:04:25 • 2min
28
How Long Should You Rest to Train Strength?
01:06:20 • 4min
29
How to Reduce Finger Mobility After Exercise
01:10:23 • 3min
30
How to Balance Your Climbing
01:13:00 • 3min
31
How to Stop Doing the Rice Bucket
01:16:27 • 2min
32
Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training During Pregnancy
01:18:15 • 2min