

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books

Jul 23, 2025 • 1h 14min
TBP 293: Sport Psychologist Kat Lumby Uses REBT to Deal with Fear in Climbing
Kat Lumby is a Sport and Exercise Psychologist in Training (SEPiT) out of Wales, UK who works with all kinds of athletes, especially climbers and surfers. She has been a climbing coach for many years and has been able to take her skills to the next level with her SEPiT education. In this episode she talks about the specific kind of therapy she uses with athletes to deal with fear (and other barriers to performance). It’s called Rational Emotion Behavioral Therapy (REBT), and she will literally take you through the “ABC’s” of this modality.
She also does a quick therapy session with me during the interview where we talk about my fear of falling. We come to some pretty great insights, which I’ve been using ever since in my climbing sessions. We also talk about some research she did on climbers and how you can put this kind of concrete thinking to use in your own climbing.
You can work with Kat Lumby as your coach or your sport psychologist at labyrinthclimbing.co.uk.

Jul 9, 2025 • 51min
TBP 292: How 13 Elite Climbers Approach Rest Days
I recently received an email from someone asking for a podcast episode that talked about resting. They wanted to know how elite/pro level climbers spend their rest days, how often they rest when they’re projecting, when they’re training, and generally just how they think about rest. So I reached out to a bunch of elite climbers and got 13 responses to these three questions:
How many days a week do you rest when you’re projecting? What about when you’re in a training cycle?
What do you do on your rest days in terms of physical activity when you’re projecting? What about when you’re in a training cycle?
How old are you and how long have you been climbing?
They sent me emails or a voice memo and here’s who responded:
Emily Harrington
Alex Honnold
Lynn Hill
Hazel Findlay
Jonathan Siegrist
Bill Ramsey
Katie Lamb
Paige Claassen
Matt Pincus
Alex Stiger
Luke Parady
Sam Elias
Dusty Rasnick
In this episode I’ll give you a short bio of each of these climbers and then either read or play you the recording of their response. Hopefully you learn something from this episode, but mostly it’s just interesting to see how pro/elite climbers approach resting. Enjoy!

Jun 18, 2025 • 1h 7min
TBP 291 :: Alex’s Experience Being Coached by Roap for 6 Months
In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger talks about her experience being coached by Alex Puccio and Robin O’Leary (ROAP) for the past 6 months and what it’s done for her climbing. She started board climbing 2 grades harder and has improved her outdoor climbing experience as well because of the coaching she received. Alex strongly believes in the benefits of being coached and talks a little bit about being coached for the video game StarCraft as well.
She’s currently offering a 6-month coaching package for 15 new clients and she talks about what it’s like working with her at the end of the episode.
Episode Details
Why she wanted to be coached and why she chose ROAP
What worked for her
How their coaching style is different from hers
Why it made her try harder and be more consistent in her training
The thing that Puccio said to her that changed her climbing immediately
How her board climbing improved by 2 grades almost right away

Jun 11, 2025 • 60min
TBP 290: How to Effectively Train with a Busy Schedule - Coach Collin McGee
Collin McGee (@liftsmcgee) is a personal trainer and coach at C4HP with Dr. Tyler Nelson. He is also a personal trainer and coach to athletes of all sports, ages, and abilities and he has a firm grasp on how to become a stronger, better athlete no matter what your objectives are. In this episode he breaks down the basics of training and how to get better at climbing even if you have a busy schedule. Here’s what he covers:
Assessment
Strength Training
Power Training
Endurance
Flexibility
Making a Plan

May 28, 2025 • 1h 12min
TBP 289: Climbing Training Success Story - How Doug Hartman Climbed His 1st 5.13a at 46
Doug Hartman is a 46-year-old ER doctor from Oakland, CA who is married with 2 kids. He’s a busy guy, but he figured out how to optimize his training and climbing in order to send his first 5.13a at the age of 46. He’s going to tell you the main things he learned from podcasts and coaches that helped him the most, and a little bit of advice about how to be a good spouse and parent, even when you’re a passionate climber. The two main things Doug changed about his climbing were:
Resting more
Following a non-linear vs linear training program
He wrote up an entire description of everything he changed and how he trains so you can peruse it for yourself.
>See Doug’s Training Plan
Suggestions for Menopause/Perimenopause Guests
In the beginning of the episode I asked for suggestions for guests to talk about their personal experience with perimenopause/menopause and clinicians who work with people going through menopause/perimenopause. I want to educate climbers about this topic because it’s super important and impactful, and doctors are not doing a good enough job of educating us. Please email me at neely@trainingbeta.com with your suggestions! I’d prefer to have people on who are also climbers.

May 14, 2025 • 55min
TBP 288: Climbing Training Success Story Using Nutrition and Weightlifting
This interview with Jeff Rotkoff is about how he used simple information from the TrainingBeta Podcast to improve his climbing. Jeff is a 46-year-old climber from Austin, Texas, who has a full-time job and 13-year-old twins. So he’s a busy guy. He started climbing seriously about 9 years ago and started making these changes a few years ago.
He learned one nutrition tip from me and one weightlifting tip from Matt from this podcast and was able to start climbing harder, doing more in his sessions, and feeling more resilient to injury. Listen up to hear exactly what he changed and how it affected his climbing. You can find Jeff on Instagram @rotkoff.

Apr 30, 2025 • 45min
TBP 287: Trip Report and Lessons Learned from Matt’s Climbing Trip to Margalef
Coach Matt Pincus recently got back from a 7-week trip to Margalef, Spain, where he intended to get into projecting mode and climb 5.14. It turns out that the weather was rainy and he didn’t reach that goal, but he came away from the trip with some insights about his own climbing and some wisdom for the rest of us. Matt is taking a few new clients right now if you’re interested in working with him on your own climbing training. You can find his services here.
More Details:
What his intentions and goals were for the trip
What happened on his trip
How to go into a trip to have a good time even while climbing at your limit
What he learned from climbing with/near some of the world’s best climbers on this trip
Train with Coach Matt Pincus at Discounted Rate
Matt is taking 6 new clients for a 12-week stint with him at $260 per month instead of his normal $295 per month

Apr 9, 2025 • 52min
TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson
I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

Mar 26, 2025 • 1h 1min
TBP 285: Climbing Training Success Story - From 10a to 12a in 3 Months
Lea Cleary, a 40-year-old machine learning engineer from Boston, shares her inspiring journey from a 5.10a to a 5.12a in just three months. Overcoming performance anxiety and fear through mental training, she worked with Coach Alex Stiger to shift her mindset and embrace the joy of climbing. They focused on self-awareness, emotional management, and enjoying the process rather than just achieving grades. Lea now climbs with confidence, regularly sending 5.11s, and hopes to inspire others to conquer their fears and reach new heights.

Mar 12, 2025 • 1h 14min
TBP 284: Overcoming Mindset Hurdles in Projecting with Sport Psychologist Madeleine Crane
Madeleine Crane is a Sport Psychologist from Austria who runs www.climbingpsychology.com. In this episode we discussed the mental and emotional struggles that many people encounter while projecting climbs. Hopefully this discussion will help you bring awareness to your own mental experience and give you some tools to deal with fear of failure, negative comparison to others, and knowing when to call it quits on a project.
Madeleine is offering a 30% discount on her mental skills training programs at unblocd.com using the code “trainingbeta” at checkout.