The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

Lea Cleary, a 40-year-old machine learning engineer from Boston, shares her inspiring journey from a 5.10a to a 5.12a in just three months. Overcoming performance anxiety and fear through mental training, she worked with Coach Alex Stiger to shift her mindset and embrace the joy of climbing. They focused on self-awareness, emotional management, and enjoying the process rather than just achieving grades. Lea now climbs with confidence, regularly sending 5.11s, and hopes to inspire others to conquer their fears and reach new heights.

Madeleine Crane is a Sport Psychologist from Austria who runs www.climbingpsychology.com. In this episode we discussed the mental and emotional struggles that many people encounter while projecting climbs. Hopefully this discussion will help you bring awareness to your own mental experience and give you some tools to deal with fear of failure, negative comparison to others, and knowing when to call it quits on a project. Madeleine is offering a 30% discount on her mental skills training programs at unblocd.com using the code “trainingbeta” at checkout.

Alex Bridgewater is a Sport Psychologist who works with climbers and other athletes to help them be the best person they can be. That work carries over into their sport to make them perform well and have a great time doing it. He uses mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory as part of his practice, and in this episode we dive into what that means. Alex is also a climbing coach at ClimbStrong.com and has been for about 7 years. He recently finished his Master’s degree in Sport and Performance Psychology and now has a consulting business at www.InnerSourcePerformancePsychology.com, where you can work with him from anywhere in the world. What We Talked About How values play into climbing performance & training How to incoproate joy and play into climbing Mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory Mindfulness in injuries Mindfulness with fear in climbing Mindfulness exercises Who could use a sport psychologist Need Help with Your Climbing Training? TrainingBeta was started in 2012 to provide people with all kinds of resources about training for climbing. We offer expert advice on how to get stronger, braver, and more skillful in your climbing with these offerings: climbing coaching training programs online nutrition coaching mindset coaching for climbers injury rehab programs blog posts podcast episodes  We are here to help you with your climbing training needs! You can always email us at info@trainingbeta.com if you have any questions about what program or service is right for you. All Training Options

Steve Bechtel is one of the OG big daddies of climbing training. He founded and runs climbstrong.com where he has 19 coaches helping climbers all over the world get better at their sport. He’s written countless books, a ton of online climbing training programs for climbstrong, he’s hosted training seminars around the US (that I had the pleasure of teaching at), and is an accomplished 5.14 climber himself. He was my 7th guest on the TrainingBeta Podcast back in 2014, and I’ve had him on many more times after that (see below for the list). We decided it would be fun to catch up on how things have changed in the climbing world and how his philosophies have evolved in the decade since we started collaborating. What We Talked About His growing understanding of how your training “age” affects your programming Assessment use now vs before More focus on how mental/emotional aspects affect climbing performance How our waning attention spans affect our climbing and training 6 Things that go into building a training plan What’s changed in his own climbing and training New appreciation for using aerobic endurance training instead of power endurance Where training is going in the next 10 years Previous Podcast Interviews with Steve TBP 007: Training, Finger Strength, Power Endurance, Weight Loss, and Running TBP 036: Periodization and Finger Training Confusion, Psychology of Change TBP 080: How to Design a Training Program for Yourself TBP 110: Training Endurance for Climbing TBP 147: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home

In this engaging discussion, Meghan Walker, a personal finance writer and financial coach, shares her journey from journalism to the FIRE movement. She delves into strategies for achieving financial independence, including mindful spending and travel hacking. Meghan emphasizes the importance of open conversations about finances, offers savvy tips on credit card rewards, and discusses tools for effective budgeting. Listeners will discover how to balance enjoying life while building a secure financial future, making financial empowerment feel attainable.

In this episode Coach Alex Stiger and I talk openly about what we learned in 2024 about ourselves and our climbing, for better or for worse. We each chose the 5 most poignant things we learned and discussed each in depth. Alex’s List She realized she’d been protecting herself from fear and discomfort for a long time – wants to break out of that Managing stress load outside of climbing and how that affects her climbing Neurodivergence in climbing: her new diagnosis Learned how to find her own beta! Learne about how to stay positive on above max level routes My List Don’t ignore my body! (I have an injury I could’ve dealt with a long time ago) Finances and climbing: we embraced FIRE this year so that we can eventually climb more I can project hard things without freaking out now because of the mindset work I’ve done Age is not an excuse Patriarchy in climbing: how it shows up and how I’ve approached dismantling it in my life Some of the things we talk about in this episode have been very private to us until this very public conversation, so please give us grace as we explore new concepts and talk them out with each other as friends! Work with Me on Your Mindset in Climbing If you want to work on your fear, anxiety, and performance mindset with me one-on-one, I’m accepting 6 new clients to do 3 months of work (6 sessions) on all things climbing. I’ve been climbing for 27 years, and I feel uniquely qualified to act as both your coach (asking you questions only you know the answers to) AND your mentor (giving you advice) in climbing. I am a Certified Professional Coach and will hold a safe space for you to explore your thoughts and feelings about any topic you want to discuss. We will make goals for each session, and I’ll hold you accountable to carrying out the homework I give you during each session. I’m really looking forward to working with you! Work with Me on Your Climbing Mindset

In this insightful session, guest Nathaniel Lamont, a dedicated Canadian sport climber, tackles his fear of falling above bolts. Over six years of climbing experience, Nathaniel’s struggles resonate deeply within the climbing community. They explore the psychological roots of his fear and establish strategies for gradual exposure through intentional fall practice. The conversation emphasizes the importance of communication with belayers and techniques like mindfulness. This honest discussion inspires climbers to confront their fears, enhancing both skills and confidence.

Francis Sanzaro is a 45-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 30 years. He got his PhD in the Philosophy of Religion and has been studying the practice of Zen for decades. In recent years, he started applying Zen more directly and intentionally to his climbing and found that his performance and his enjoyment of the sport increased dramatically, so he wrote a book about it: The Zen of Climbing. I HIGHLY recommend the book!  I had him on the show to discuss the book and to have him tell us exactly what it means to apply Zen philosophy to your climbing. It's not complicated and you can start using these principles right away. What I took from the book is that I don't have to have as many emotions about climbing as I think I do. All I'm doing is trying my best to get to the top of a climb, and that's all it really needs to be.  What we talked about: What Zen is as it relates to climbing How to use Zen with performance anxiety How to practice Zen in everyday life Dealing with failure using Zen practices Dealing with FEAR using Zen Using Zen in his grief process after (and during) losing both of his parents recently

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some drills he uses with his clients and himself to train the different energy systems in climbing: power endurance, strength, and endurance.  More Details: Overview of the energy systems Differences between practice sessions and performance sessions Sample sessions Power endurance session Endurance Session Strength/Power Session When you'd want to train each of these energy systems How many sessions you'd want to do of each  When to do them in conjunction with each other