The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

In this episode Coach Alex Stiger and I talk openly about what we learned in 2024 about ourselves and our climbing, for better or for worse. We each chose the 5 most poignant things we learned and discussed each in depth. Alex’s List She realized she’d been protecting herself from fear and discomfort for a long time – wants to break out of that Managing stress load outside of climbing and how that affects her climbing Neurodivergence in climbing: her new diagnosis Learned how to find her own beta! Learne about how to stay positive on above max level routes My List Don’t ignore my body! (I have an injury I could’ve dealt with a long time ago) Finances and climbing: we embraced FIRE this year so that we can eventually climb more I can project hard things without freaking out now because of the mindset work I’ve done Age is not an excuse Patriarchy in climbing: how it shows up and how I’ve approached dismantling it in my life Some of the things we talk about in this episode have been very private to us until this very public conversation, so please give us grace as we explore new concepts and talk them out with each other as friends! Work with Me on Your Mindset in Climbing If you want to work on your fear, anxiety, and performance mindset with me one-on-one, I’m accepting 6 new clients to do 3 months of work (6 sessions) on all things climbing. I’ve been climbing for 27 years, and I feel uniquely qualified to act as both your coach (asking you questions only you know the answers to) AND your mentor (giving you advice) in climbing. I am a Certified Professional Coach and will hold a safe space for you to explore your thoughts and feelings about any topic you want to discuss. We will make goals for each session, and I’ll hold you accountable to carrying out the homework I give you during each session. I’m really looking forward to working with you! Work with Me on Your Climbing Mindset

In this insightful session, guest Nathaniel Lamont, a dedicated Canadian sport climber, tackles his fear of falling above bolts. Over six years of climbing experience, Nathaniel’s struggles resonate deeply within the climbing community. They explore the psychological roots of his fear and establish strategies for gradual exposure through intentional fall practice. The conversation emphasizes the importance of communication with belayers and techniques like mindfulness. This honest discussion inspires climbers to confront their fears, enhancing both skills and confidence.

Francis Sanzaro is a 45-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 30 years. He got his PhD in the Philosophy of Religion and has been studying the practice of Zen for decades. In recent years, he started applying Zen more directly and intentionally to his climbing and found that his performance and his enjoyment of the sport increased dramatically, so he wrote a book about it: The Zen of Climbing. I HIGHLY recommend the book!  I had him on the show to discuss the book and to have him tell us exactly what it means to apply Zen philosophy to your climbing. It's not complicated and you can start using these principles right away. What I took from the book is that I don't have to have as many emotions about climbing as I think I do. All I'm doing is trying my best to get to the top of a climb, and that's all it really needs to be.  What we talked about: What Zen is as it relates to climbing How to use Zen with performance anxiety How to practice Zen in everyday life Dealing with failure using Zen practices Dealing with FEAR using Zen Using Zen in his grief process after (and during) losing both of his parents recently

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some drills he uses with his clients and himself to train the different energy systems in climbing: power endurance, strength, and endurance.  More Details: Overview of the energy systems Differences between practice sessions and performance sessions Sample sessions Power endurance session Endurance Session Strength/Power Session When you'd want to train each of these energy systems How many sessions you'd want to do of each  When to do them in conjunction with each other

Ashley Hardy is a friend of mine who lives in Boulder and just climbed her first 5.13c, a stout climb called "Choose Life" in the Flatirons. The reason I asked her to be on the show is that I find her situation to be both relatable and inspirational. The relatable part is that she has a full-time job as a software engineer and that she climbs with her husband, and she really REALLY loves climbing.  The inspirational part is that despite working full-time, she manages to climb outside 3-4 days per week for a lot of the year. And she doesn't train in any conventional ways (hangboarding, strength training, board climbing, etc). She just goes outside and climbs on routes that challenge her and has steadily worked up to 5.13c doing it. I really liked this conversation and I think Ashley has a lot to teach us about how to pursue your passions and goals despite limited time and energy.  What we talked about: Why she loves climbing so much and whether she ever gets burnt out How she fits outdoor climbing in with her work schedule Why she feels she needs more rest than other people and how much that is How she overcame the fear caused by a dangerous fall on her 5.13c How she works on her fear on a regular basis How she's gotten so strong mostly climbing outside How she and her husband keep their climbing relationship healthy Advice for people trying to break into the 5.13 grade

Matt Pincus, a climbing coach at Training Beta, shares crucial insights on strength training specifically for climbers. He emphasizes consistency over sheer numbers and how weightlifting should complement, not overshadow, climbing practice. Pincus discusses the 80/20 rule in training, proper rep counts for muscle engagement, and the importance of understanding personal training limits through Rate of Perceived Exertion. He also provides guidance on designing personalized strength programs and balancing recovery to prevent injuries and boost climbing performance.

Stacy Sims, MSC, PHD, is a well-known exercise physiologist and nutrition scientist who has done groundbreaking research and education for women in athletics. Dr. Sims has published over 100 peer-reviewed papers and several books and is a regularly featured speaker at professional and academic conferences, including those by USOC and USA Cycling. Stacy currently holds a Senior Research Associate position with SPRINZ- AUT University, supervises PhD students, writes academic papers, and is on the advisory board of some cutting-edge companies, including Tonal Strength Institute, WILD.AI, and EXOS. She also has her own business (www.drstacysims.com), creating and delivering online learning material focused on women training with their physiology across the lifespan. I highly recommend her book Roar, which first introduced me to the differences in women's vs men's needs in sports performance. It was mind-blowing, honestly, and so validating to learn that a lot of what we've been taught about exercise science doesn't really apply to women. After all, the research was mostly done on men, and that is what Dr. Sims is trying to change.  I was honored to sit down with Stacy to talk about some really important topics for perimenopausal and menopausal women, and all females in general. She really knows her stuff and speaks quite scientifically, so I asked her a lot of clarifying questions so we can all make use of the information she provided. I hope you enjoy this one!  What we talked about: The real journey she had with menopause herself Why running stopped working for her body and what she did instead An optimal training schedule for peri- or menopausal females Cortisol differences as we age and what it does to our bodies How estrogen plays into aging and athleticism Which exercises are best for energy levels and body composition for menopause The all importance of sleep for aging women Carbs and menopause Caffeine for menopause Intermittent fasting? Which supplements are worth it

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some very detailed rock climbing projecting tactics to make your process more efficient. He goes over why you'd use a top-down vs ground-up approach, why you might want to use both of them, and when each is appropriate. This is for you if you want to hear from a 5.14/V12 climber about how he gets projects done and how he advises his clients to get theirs done. You can sign up to work with Matt as your coach at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.  

Charlie Schreiber, a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com, dives into a dynamic coaching session that reveals personal climbing goals and struggles. They discuss how to reclaim past climbing prowess, targeting 5.13c, while balancing age and height considerations. Charlie emphasizes the importance of personalized training and mindful recovery strategies. The conversation also touches on the mental hurdles faced by climbers, the value of tailored programs, and the significance of adapting techniques for individual growth in the climbing journey.

Coach Alex Stiger, an expert in helping climbers conquer motivational slumps, shares her personal journey through a challenging three-month period. She discusses the normalcy of feeling unmotivated and emphasizes reconnecting with the joy of climbing. Listeners gain insights on shifting focus from difficult climbs to practices that bring satisfaction, like yoga and freeing trips. Stiger also outlines a structured approach for overcoming motivational barriers through self-reflection and video assessments, guiding climbers to rediscover their passion.