The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Ashley Hardy is a friend of mine who lives in Boulder and just climbed her first 5.13c, a stout climb called "Choose Life" in the Flatirons. The reason I asked her to be on the show is that I find her situation to be both relatable and inspirational. The relatable part is that she has a full-time job as a software engineer and that she climbs with her husband, and she really REALLY loves climbing.  The inspirational part is that despite working full-time, she manages to climb outside 3-4 days per week for a lot of the year. And she doesn't train in any conventional ways (hangboarding, strength training, board climbing, etc). She just goes outside and climbs on routes that challenge her and has steadily worked up to 5.13c doing it. I really liked this conversation and I think Ashley has a lot to teach us about how to pursue your passions and goals despite limited time and energy.  What we talked about: Why she loves climbing so much and whether she ever gets burnt out How she fits outdoor climbing in with her work schedule Why she feels she needs more rest than other people and how much that is How she overcame the fear caused by a dangerous fall on her 5.13c How she works on her fear on a regular basis How she's gotten so strong mostly climbing outside How she and her husband keep their climbing relationship healthy Advice for people trying to break into the 5.13 grade

Matt Pincus, a climbing coach at Training Beta, shares crucial insights on strength training specifically for climbers. He emphasizes consistency over sheer numbers and how weightlifting should complement, not overshadow, climbing practice. Pincus discusses the 80/20 rule in training, proper rep counts for muscle engagement, and the importance of understanding personal training limits through Rate of Perceived Exertion. He also provides guidance on designing personalized strength programs and balancing recovery to prevent injuries and boost climbing performance.

Stacy Sims, MSC, PHD, is a well-known exercise physiologist and nutrition scientist who has done groundbreaking research and education for women in athletics. Dr. Sims has published over 100 peer-reviewed papers and several books and is a regularly featured speaker at professional and academic conferences, including those by USOC and USA Cycling. Stacy currently holds a Senior Research Associate position with SPRINZ- AUT University, supervises PhD students, writes academic papers, and is on the advisory board of some cutting-edge companies, including Tonal Strength Institute, WILD.AI, and EXOS. She also has her own business (www.drstacysims.com), creating and delivering online learning material focused on women training with their physiology across the lifespan. I highly recommend her book Roar, which first introduced me to the differences in women's vs men's needs in sports performance. It was mind-blowing, honestly, and so validating to learn that a lot of what we've been taught about exercise science doesn't really apply to women. After all, the research was mostly done on men, and that is what Dr. Sims is trying to change.  I was honored to sit down with Stacy to talk about some really important topics for perimenopausal and menopausal women, and all females in general. She really knows her stuff and speaks quite scientifically, so I asked her a lot of clarifying questions so we can all make use of the information she provided. I hope you enjoy this one!  What we talked about: The real journey she had with menopause herself Why running stopped working for her body and what she did instead An optimal training schedule for peri- or menopausal females Cortisol differences as we age and what it does to our bodies How estrogen plays into aging and athleticism Which exercises are best for energy levels and body composition for menopause The all importance of sleep for aging women Carbs and menopause Caffeine for menopause Intermittent fasting? Which supplements are worth it

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some very detailed rock climbing projecting tactics to make your process more efficient. He goes over why you'd use a top-down vs ground-up approach, why you might want to use both of them, and when each is appropriate. This is for you if you want to hear from a 5.14/V12 climber about how he gets projects done and how he advises his clients to get theirs done. You can sign up to work with Matt as your coach at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.  

Charlie Schreiber, a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com, dives into a dynamic coaching session that reveals personal climbing goals and struggles. They discuss how to reclaim past climbing prowess, targeting 5.13c, while balancing age and height considerations. Charlie emphasizes the importance of personalized training and mindful recovery strategies. The conversation also touches on the mental hurdles faced by climbers, the value of tailored programs, and the significance of adapting techniques for individual growth in the climbing journey.

Coach Alex Stiger, an expert in helping climbers conquer motivational slumps, shares her personal journey through a challenging three-month period. She discusses the normalcy of feeling unmotivated and emphasizes reconnecting with the joy of climbing. Listeners gain insights on shifting focus from difficult climbs to practices that bring satisfaction, like yoga and freeing trips. Stiger also outlines a structured approach for overcoming motivational barriers through self-reflection and video assessments, guiding climbers to rediscover their passion.

Zoe Sayetta, a youth and adult climbing coach from New York with a master’s in sport psychology, shares her expertise on fostering a growth mindset. She discusses the importance of emotional regulation in teens and how to encourage healthy self-talk. Zoe offers strategies for managing imposter syndrome and emphasizes using visualization techniques in climbing. She also highlights ways to motivate climbers without tying their identity to success, advocating for patience and resilience as essential skills in both youth and adult athletes.

Ravioli Biceps, a top Moonboard climber known for sending V13 problems, shares insights from his remarkable climbing journey. He reveals his passion for board climbing and its impact on his outdoor ascents. Listeners learn about the challenges of balancing a demanding work schedule with rigorous training. Ravioli discusses community engagement, mental resilience, and the evolution of climbing grades. Notably, he reveals the story behind his nickname and reflects on the importance of accessibility in climbing problem-setting.

Explore the journey of evolving from frustration to fulfillment in climbing. Discover how embracing self-compassion can transform your mindset. Reflect on the importance of acceptance and nurturing a positive approach to challenges. Listen as personal anecdotes reveal the value of community support and enjoying the journey. Uncover ways to navigate life's difficulties with kindness towards oneself, emphasizing that true worth goes beyond achievements.

Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber discusses transitioning from overtraining to efficiency, coaching strategies, creating personalized training plans, optimizing recovery, mindset in climbing, and the power of purpose in climbing. He shares insights on video analysis, flow states, and habit stacking for peak performance.