The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some very detailed rock climbing projecting tactics to make your process more efficient. He goes over why you'd use a top-down vs ground-up approach, why you might want to use both of them, and when each is appropriate. This is for you if you want to hear from a 5.14/V12 climber about how he gets projects done and how he advises his clients to get theirs done. You can sign up to work with Matt as your coach at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.  

Charlie Schreiber, a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com, dives into a dynamic coaching session that reveals personal climbing goals and struggles. They discuss how to reclaim past climbing prowess, targeting 5.13c, while balancing age and height considerations. Charlie emphasizes the importance of personalized training and mindful recovery strategies. The conversation also touches on the mental hurdles faced by climbers, the value of tailored programs, and the significance of adapting techniques for individual growth in the climbing journey.

Coach Alex Stiger, an expert in helping climbers conquer motivational slumps, shares her personal journey through a challenging three-month period. She discusses the normalcy of feeling unmotivated and emphasizes reconnecting with the joy of climbing. Listeners gain insights on shifting focus from difficult climbs to practices that bring satisfaction, like yoga and freeing trips. Stiger also outlines a structured approach for overcoming motivational barriers through self-reflection and video assessments, guiding climbers to rediscover their passion.

Zoe Sayetta, a youth and adult climbing coach from New York with a master’s in sport psychology, shares her expertise on fostering a growth mindset. She discusses the importance of emotional regulation in teens and how to encourage healthy self-talk. Zoe offers strategies for managing imposter syndrome and emphasizes using visualization techniques in climbing. She also highlights ways to motivate climbers without tying their identity to success, advocating for patience and resilience as essential skills in both youth and adult athletes.

Ravioli Biceps, a top Moonboard climber known for sending V13 problems, shares insights from his remarkable climbing journey. He reveals his passion for board climbing and its impact on his outdoor ascents. Listeners learn about the challenges of balancing a demanding work schedule with rigorous training. Ravioli discusses community engagement, mental resilience, and the evolution of climbing grades. Notably, he reveals the story behind his nickname and reflects on the importance of accessibility in climbing problem-setting.

Explore the journey of evolving from frustration to fulfillment in climbing. Discover how embracing self-compassion can transform your mindset. Reflect on the importance of acceptance and nurturing a positive approach to challenges. Listen as personal anecdotes reveal the value of community support and enjoying the journey. Uncover ways to navigate life's difficulties with kindness towards oneself, emphasizing that true worth goes beyond achievements.

Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber discusses transitioning from overtraining to efficiency, coaching strategies, creating personalized training plans, optimizing recovery, mindset in climbing, and the power of purpose in climbing. He shares insights on video analysis, flow states, and habit stacking for peak performance.

Karly Rager is a climber and a climbing coach with her business Project Direct Coaching. Her approach to coaching climbers is a little different than what I've seen anywhere else, which really caught my attention when I discovered her on Instagram. While she does the normal strength training and tactics education with her clients, she also focuses a lot on mindset. In fact, she has an entire mindset coaching option to help climbers with their "head game," including fear of falling and nervous system regulation while climbing.  I asked her to be on the show to talk about ways she helps her clients manage fear, but also to discuss the reasons why our training in the gym doesn't often prepare us for climbing outside. Sometimes it's surprising when we go outside to find that we don't climb the same grades, things feel harder, and it's just weirder out there. So she breaks down the reasons that's happening, and what you can do to make your outdoor climbing better, both physically and mentally.  We also talk about Karly's own progression in climbing, what she loves about it so much, and what it was like to quit her full time engineering job to start a climbing coaching company.  Here's what we talked about: How she trained for her first 5.13c this year Outdoor vs Indoor climbing tactics and training Cognitive strategies to manage fear Movement patterns and strengths required for harder climbs Shoulder engagement on harder climbs Fewer points of contact on the wall How to practice and train all of these things

Robynne Murray is a climber who graciously offered to do a mindset coaching session with me on the podcast about her negative body image. Robynne feels like her body doesn’t fit in with the “typical” climber body type, so she often feels self conscious and ashamed. It affects her mood, her confidence, and her sense of belonging. In this session, her goal was to have some tools to use to start talking to herself differently about her body so she can stop feeling so ashamed and anxious about it. I coached her about her thoughts and emotions about the situation, and we did a lot of reframing, validating, and reassuring that she is indeed good enough just the way she is. We talked about why she feels this way (what happened as a child that triggered such intense feelings of shame), how she can speak to herself differently going forward, and ways she can communicate with her close community more productively about it so she’s not constantly seeking external validation. We also talked about society’s role in her feeling this way, and the choice she has in caring about what people may or may not think of her. This was one of my most favorite coaching sessions to date, honestly. If you struggle with low body image (I think I know one person who doesn’t), please listen to this. I’m confident you’ll hear something in this conversation that applies to you and you’ll be able to use some of the same insights and tools for yourself. Work with Me on Your Body Image If you want to work on this with me one-on-one, I’m accepting new mindset clients right now and I would be honored to help you feel more empowered and positive about your body. Or at the very least, must  more neutral about your body. Work with Me on Body Image

Jesse Grupper, a talented climber, shares his training regimen and positivity. Topics include injury recovery, balancing climbing with engineering, and advocating for change in the climbing community. He discusses mindset, training dynamics, and the importance of setting personal limits for success.