TBP 268: From Overtraining to Discipline & Efficiency – Coach Charlie Schreiber
Jul 24, 2024
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Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber discusses transitioning from overtraining to efficiency, coaching strategies, creating personalized training plans, optimizing recovery, mindset in climbing, and the power of purpose in climbing. He shares insights on video analysis, flow states, and habit stacking for peak performance.
Transition from overtraining to disciplined athlete is vital for long-term climbing improvement.
Personalized training tailored to individual needs enhances progress and prevents injuries in climbers.
Focus on process goals, habit stacking, and enjoying training promotes sustained growth in climbing.
Deep dives
Importance of Individualized Training Plans
Individualized training plans are crucial for climbers aiming to overcome plateaus and achieve specific goals. By having a personal coach, climbers can receive tailored guidance on identifying goals, strengths, weaknesses, and limitations. Coaches like Matt Pinkus and Alex Steiger offer remote coaching services through platforms like True Coach that involve creating customized plans and providing ongoing support. Video analysis, movement critiques, and regular communication help climbers improve physically and develop better climbing skills.
Transition from Overtraining to Disciplined Approach
Charlie Schreiber discusses transitioning from a phase of overtraining to becoming a disciplined athlete. He emphasizes the importance of finding a balance between training enough to progress while allowing adequate rest for recovery and adaptation. Understanding the fine line between overtraining and optimal training leads to long-term growth and improvement. By sharing his experience of personal transformation, Schreiber highlights the value of smart training practices to prevent injuries and promote consistent progress.
Effective Training Strategies for Climbers
Charlie Schreiber advocates for strategic training approaches tailored to individual needs. Providing examples of 'green days' and appropriate recovery times, Schreiber emphasizes understanding one's capacity and planning sessions that facilitate adaptation without leading to excessive fatigue. He challenges popular beliefs in climbing training, encouraging climbers to focus on specific aspects like maximal strength or power when necessary, rather than following generalized training patterns. By promoting personalized and effective training strategies, Schreiber aims to guide climbers towards sustainable progress and injury prevention.
Training Recovery and Adaptation
Understanding the individual's training history and recovery capacity is crucial for optimal training outcomes. By knowing the maximal adaptive volume of each individual and the rate at which they can recover and adapt, training can be tailored effectively. It is important to avoid overtraining by monitoring fatigue levels and adjusting training intensity accordingly to ensure continuous progress and prevent setbacks.
Focus on Improvements and Process
Shifting the focus from outcome-based success to process-oriented improvements is key for sustained progress and fulfillment in climbing. Emphasizing small improvements and learning from each session rather than solely focusing on sending routes fosters a positive mindset and long-term growth. By habit stacking enjoyable activities with tedious tasks and maintaining a strong 'why' for training, climbers can stay motivated and engaged in their training routines.
Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach who runs Paradigm Climbing and works with all levels of athletes–including elite, competitive ones–from all over the world. He’s also a very strong boulderer, having sent up to V13 and continuously training to improve his own climbing.
In this interview, we talked about a range of topics, including how he used to overtrain and how his climbing and physical well-being improved when he learned to be more efficient with his training. This concept permeates the rest of our talk, as it guides him as a coach to do the best job possible.
Here’s what we talked about:
His experience as a youth coach
Overtraining vs. Disciplined Athlete
Training for an overhung crimpy boulder
Linear periodization vs logical progression
Case study of sport climbing’s 3-month training plan
How to know when you’re fully recovered
Why he has a coach himself
How he uses video analysis
How to have process goals vs outcome goals in training and climbing
How to access flow state
Making the tedious into the enjoyable and habit stacking
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