Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach who runs Paradigm Climbing and works with all levels of athletes–including elite, competitive ones–from all over the world. He’s also a very strong boulderer, having sent up to V13 and continuously training to improve his own climbing.
In this interview, we talked about a range of topics, including how he used to overtrain and how his climbing and physical well-being improved when he learned to be more efficient with his training. This concept permeates the rest of our talk, as it guides him as a coach to do the best job possible.
Here’s what we talked about:
- His experience as a youth coach
- Overtraining vs. Disciplined Athlete
- Training for an overhung crimpy boulder
- Linear periodization vs logical progression
- Case study of sport climbing’s 3-month training plan
- How to know when you’re fully recovered
- Why he has a coach himself
- How he uses video analysis
- How to have process goals vs outcome goals in training and climbing
- How to access flow state
- Making the tedious into the enjoyable and habit stacking
