TBP 272: Charlie Schreiber Coaches Me on My Climbing and Training
Sep 4, 2024
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Charlie Schreiber, a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com, dives into a dynamic coaching session that reveals personal climbing goals and struggles. They discuss how to reclaim past climbing prowess, targeting 5.13c, while balancing age and height considerations. Charlie emphasizes the importance of personalized training and mindful recovery strategies. The conversation also touches on the mental hurdles faced by climbers, the value of tailored programs, and the significance of adapting techniques for individual growth in the climbing journey.
Personalized coaching emphasizes the importance of individual goals and crafting training programs that address personal strengths and weaknesses.
Establishing SMART goals enhances climbing progression by providing a structured path that motivates athletes to achieve measurable success.
Integrating enjoyment into climbing practices fosters better mental health and sustainable training, highlighting the importance of passion over performance.
Deep dives
Coaching Services Offered
Professional coaching services for climbing are available, emphasizing personalized training programs from an experienced coach, Matt Pinkus. With a robust background of seven years in coaching and being a five14 V12 climber, he tailors programs based on individual goals, skill levels, and specific situations related to injuries or equipment. These programs are developed through consultations, allowing clients to receive strategic guidance that maximizes efficiency during climbing sessions. The use of the True Coach app further supports athletes by providing ease of access to their training plans and progress tracking.
Goal-Oriented Coaching Approach
The coaching philosophy focuses on setting specific and measurable goals, which significantly enhances the likelihood of achieving them. A recent coaching session highlighted the importance of establishing clear targets for progression, allowing athletes to track their growth effectively. The concept of SMART goals—Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, Time-bound—was discussed to clarify the path forward. This structured approach is designed to motivate climbers to make consistent, attainable progress rather than overwhelming them with unrealistic expectations.
Personal Experience of the Host
The host, Neely Quinn, shared her personal struggles and aspirations in climbing during a coaching session, making the insights relatable for listeners. She expressed the desire to meet her climbing potential while navigating the challenges of age and physical limitations. Discussion revolved around the impact of injuries, body type, and the mental barriers that often inhibit climbers from pushing their limits. This candid conversation provided listeners with an authentic view of the coaching process and the challenges athletes face during training.
The Importance of Enjoyment in Climbing
The podcast emphasized the significance of enjoyment and fun in climbing, a factor often overlooked when focusing solely on performance and training. Neely acknowledged that prioritizing enjoyment can lead to more sustainable practice and better mental health, especially as she grapples with climbing challenges. The coach encouraged integrating enjoyable climbs into training to alleviate pressure and foster passion for the sport. This balanced approach is intended to cultivate a more positive mindset, allowing climbers to thrive without the stress of excessive competition or self-expectation.
Post-Coaching Reflections and Future Plans
Following the coaching session, Neely reflected on her journey since the recording, indicating shifts in her climbing focus and mindset. Despite not using the proposed training program immediately, she experienced personal growth by openly pursuing her enjoyment of climbing on familiar routes. The significance of self-permission to explore desired climbing styles was highlighted, illustrating how personal acknowledgment can influence performance. Plans for future climbing trips, including goals of strengthening skills and maintaining motivation, signal a positive trajectory as she embraces a flexible approach to her training.
Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com who was recently on the show. After that episode was done recording, we decided we should do a coaching session with him as my coach!
So we recorded it right then and there, which was a couple months ago. In the session, he asked me a lot of clarifying questions to figure out how to create a training program for me, which he did the day after this conversation (links below to see that program).
What we talked about:
My goals with climbing
My experience with training - what has worked and not worked
My weaknesses and strengths
What I WANT to be climbing
How to get me to 5.13c again
What holds me back in my climbing
How my age (46) plays into my goals
How my height has informed my climbing
My Training Program from Charlie
Charlie created a detailed training program for me with some educational content included in it. He sent them in google docs that are freely available: