The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Use LPTs to Strengthen Your Strength

It's not a replacement for rock climbing and it would never be that but for people that have very specific goals or if they're doing supplemental finger training it makes sense to find ways that we can stress them a little bit more like the sport. So what I have in my mind that we're gonna be testing at that clinic is for people that are bouldering we're gonna try and test them and their velocity on the terrain of a particular project  and then measure their movement velocity. In addition to their finger training, you would also train other movements such as hip-hinging pressing pull-ups etc at the same velocity that they are expressing on the wall as like their average velocity.

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