The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Balance Your Climbing

The idea that we need to add a lot more additional training to prevent injuries is total bullshit. The SMO2 monitor on the back side of my hand as well on my forearm to measure those muscles and we use them at a pretty high intensity when we're climbing hard. If someone feels like they want to get better endurance or stronger with those that's fine but you have to use something that's heavy. You would be much better off grabbing a heavy dumbbell and doing like a reverse risk curl either exercise eccentric concentric or isometric or isotoniclike.

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