TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Closed Crimping and Injury
There's no doubt that closed crimping adds more stress to the pulleys but you know adding stress to a tissue is not inherently dangerous or risky. The intensity of what they're doing is usually very less indicated as a risk factor. It's all about how much of a dosage and how quickly someone's bringing that under their fingers.
UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.
In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best. He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more.
Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:
Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad. His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions. While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.
Other Episodes with Tyler
- TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
- TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
- TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
- TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
- How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn’t do on a hangboard
- How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time
- Results he’s seeing with clients
- General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger
- When to do this during training/performance cycles
- General hangboarding questions answered
- What forms of training he would love to see go extinct
- The importance of appropriate training load
- Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue
- Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Do a consultation with Tyler
- Instagram: @c4hp
- Facebook: @camp4chiropractic
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.
Training Programs for YouDo you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
- At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
- For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
- For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
- Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
- All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
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