The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How Long Should You Rest to Train Strength?

I heard something recently and I wonder your opinion on it that to train strength your rest time should be longer than your active time do you think that could be applicable in a hangboard training like if you're doing a repeater do seven seconds on and 13 off versus like seven on or three off. There's science to support that people that are doing less volume and they're doing less intensity see strength gains that are equivalent to people that are using higher intensities the typical set rep schemes so as a general rule that's probably fine but certainly it's more nuanced than that when it comes to strength conditioning.

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