The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Choose the Right Grips for Your Fingers

I'm a big fan of training full crimp on a fingerboard because when the colds get really small outside that's what I need and that's not something I've trained a lot in my life but I don't see a big benefit for myself by training a half cramp you know. When I do a half-cramp it's much more concentric it's not like me doing it what's called a yielding isometric it's more like me pulling and I can't do it so I spent a year training the half-Cramp trying to make my fingers really strong with it and I still can't do ahalf-cramp on arm hang he got to like maybe

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