The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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Should I Stop Training My Fingers?

People whose elbows start hurting when they start increasing their hangboarding. They need to do less of a dosage and that would be a good example of when they could do multiple dosages in a day instead of one long session cool great but i don't think it's the elbows fault the elbow muscles are strong. When people have elbow pain should they stop training their fingers right? There's way more muscles that flex the fingers that do not attach to the elbow so they just need to find a different way to train their fingers use a no-hanging device Use a tension block lifting something or pulling horizontally works well as does keeping more bend in your elbow like 90 degrees.

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