The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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The History of the 20 Millimeter Edge

A lot of hangboard protocols that say to do the entire workout on a 20 millimeter edge or specify the edge size maybe people should be looking at those and considering the lengths of their fingers. It's all about training your skin and training your pain threshold but you're not going to get that much greater recruitment or strength adaptation than you would on a bigger edge anyways. Do very small amounts of that after you've done climbing or warmed up whateverDo a little bit of that so you get familiar with the edges and get comfortable with the pain then do all the rest of your actual strength training on on 30 millimeter 25 millimeter edges and you'll you'll be just as well off.

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