The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Use an SMO2 Monitor to Measure Your Oxygen Use and Recovery Rate

The SMO2 monitor measures how much oxygen you're using during your workout and then it also measures how quickly your oxygen is recovered. We can see very quickly if we do like a repeater protocol on someone the repetition number at which they're not really utilizing and refueling their oxygen supply to their muscles. When it comes to fingerboarding protocols it's really hard to know exactly what's stressing someone's physiology unless we take them to failure or unless we use more kind of nuanced methods for for assessing people.

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