The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Measure the Distance of the End Bone on the Finger

"It's been interesting because I've been using my diagnostic ultrasound to measure the distance of the the end bone on the finger which is the distal failings" "I have way more leverage than he does on his finger flexors right so it makes total sense that I should be able to produce more force on my fingers just based on my genetics and how I'm built but also like for him it doesn't make a lot of sense."

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