The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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How to Train Your Fingers on a Larger Edge Size

Most females the 20 millimeter edge is probably fine because they're covering most of their distal bone on that edge. If you're a tall male generally speaking a 20 millimeters edge you're not getting as much actual bone on the edge but even we measured so there's a couple exceptions to that. There's a couple tall people that had finger lengths similar to mine and I'm 5'10 you know how long my fingers are. Even on opposite on the same hand on different fingers the ring in the middle finger was longer than the middle finger, some cases the ringfinger was longer than  the middle finger. You would get just as much of a reward if you used a bigger

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