The Testpiece Podcast #114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox
Sep 2, 2024
Tyler Nelson, founder of Camp 4 Human Performance and a sport science expert for climbers, delves into how personal morphology influences climbing. He discusses the significance of finger strength for performance and injury prevention, and explores unique training approaches like using unlevel edges. Tyler introduces the Talon grip technique and emphasizes balancing strength and mobility. He also highlights the importance of understanding individual biomechanics to tailor training, fostering better performance while reducing injury risks.
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Edge Size Must Match Finger Morphology
- A 20 mm edge doesn't support most people's DIP joints and often causes soreness when used for max hangs.
- Use larger edges (e.g., 30 mm) or vary edges to match individual finger morphology and reduce injury risk.
Strength Train To Protect And Increase Tolerance
- Strength training protects tissues and lets climbers tolerate more practice without pain.
- Prioritize recovery and progressive overload so adaptations remain protective, not harmful.
Force On Board ≠ Force On Wall
- Increasing finger force on a board doesn't automatically translate to applying more force on the wall.
- Body position, footwork and coordination determine how effectively you use holds outdoors and indoors.