The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Nov 3, 2025 • 1h 37min
Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler!Media Mentioned:Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”Wedge Video “This training board is legendary — here’s why”Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Tips for setting a spray wall? Did you set one?Why aren’t you on the leaderboards even though you climb all the hard ones?How do you like the 2024 MB?Are boards becoming more consistent between brands?Why is 8a harder on a board than outdoors? (Is it?!)Top 5 us boards vs top 5 euro boarders, who wins?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Oct 27, 2025 • 1h 10min
#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?What was it like being famous when young and what does she recommend to up and coming pro’s?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Oct 20, 2025 • 1h 58min
Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Oct 13, 2025 • 1h 35min
#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level.Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is one of the founders of the incredible Benchmark Climbing gyms in SF and Berkeley.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How to do you analyze your own video like a coach does?Top easy/mod/hard boulder in Yosemite?Best boulder in the North East?How do you choose feet when you're outdoors and there’s so many options?Top slab climbing tips?You can find Mark on his website, https://www.reachcoaching.net/ and on Instagram at www.instagram.com/therealheal Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Oct 6, 2025 • 1h 22min
Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned:"Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana RaderPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How do you stick better to wood holds? (hands and feet)How do you warmup when you only have a board?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sep 29, 2025 • 1h 36min
#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100
Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts.Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)!Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):All things wrists!Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is “just” pain?Find Paul on Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/theclimbingphysio/ or on his website: www.theclimbingphysio.co.ukJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sep 22, 2025 • 1h 47min
Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and BishopDoes a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sep 15, 2025 • 1h 27min
#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa
The legend himself, Chris Sharma.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sep 8, 2025 • 1h 24min
Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.'Classics' mentioned:"Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45°Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sep 1, 2025 • 1h 43min
#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach
Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16).Here's where you can find Jesse online:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
