The Testpiece Podcast

Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-upPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Do you ever see people that perform significantly better than their testing metrics suggest? What is their ‘secret sauce’?Is it important to be a good climber if you want to be a good coach?How would you coach Will Bosi if decided that he wanted to compete in the 2028 Olympics?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morphology? Risk? Condition? And how FA’s decide to grade based on these factors.UPDATE / CORRECTION: A CLIMBER WAS NOT SHOT AND KILLED BY A HUNTER IN THE SE. IT WAS A NON CLIMBER WHO WAS TRAGICALLY SHOT. MORE INFO HERE: https://bucks.crimewatchpa.com/da/29567/post/bucks-county-hunter-pleads-guilty-sentenced-7-20-years-killing-jason-kutt-nockamixonJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports.In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some have an ‘X’ factor that give them broad appeal, and we discuss what that is and how to get it.Tyler is also an incredible climber and success story in his own right. He went from a “typical” strong dirtbag to having a successful career in climbing, and he shares how you can do that too.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):What are the most valuable skills for a professional climber to develop, in addition to their climbing ability?Does anyone make 9 figures in our industry? 8 figures? 7 figures?!What is the most outrageous sponsorship deal you were a part of that actually made sense?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler!Media Mentioned:Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”Wedge Video “This training board is legendary — here’s why”Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Tips for setting a spray wall? Did you set one?Why aren’t you on the leaderboards even though you climb all the hard ones?How do you like the 2024 MB?Are boards becoming more consistent between brands?Why is 8a harder on a board than outdoors? (Is it?!)Top 5 us boards vs top 5 euro boarders, who wins?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?What was it like being famous when young and what does she recommend to up and coming pro’s?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level.Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is one of the founders of the incredible Benchmark Climbing gyms in SF and Berkeley.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How to do you analyze your own video like a coach does?Top easy/mod/hard boulder in Yosemite?Best boulder in the North East?How do you choose feet when you're outdoors and there’s so many options?Top slab climbing tips?You can find Mark on his website, https://www.reachcoaching.net/ and on Instagram at www.instagram.com/therealheal Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned:"Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana RaderPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):How do you stick better to wood holds? (hands and feet)How do you warmup when you only have a board?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts.Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)!Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):All things wrists!Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is “just” pain?Find Paul on Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/theclimbingphysio/ or on his website: www.theclimbingphysio.co.ukJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and BishopDoes a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE