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The Testpiece Podcast

Latest episodes

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May 5, 2025 • 2h 24min

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great

Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt!Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass’ climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy’s. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons why climbing is viewed the way it is today.SHOW NOTES:Josh Lowell’s InstagramReel Rock’s InstagramReel Rock WebsiteRampage on YouTubeSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Apr 28, 2025 • 2h 10min

#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode.Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Tim Kang’s InstagramFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangHamish McArthur Testpiece EpisodeMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Apr 25, 2025 • 47min

#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Apr 21, 2025 • 2h 4min

#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Apr 14, 2025 • 1h 37min

#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering.And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.SHOW NOTES:Tyler’s InstagramTyler’s YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Apr 7, 2025 • 1h 31min

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?!Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.SHOW NOTES:BeastmakerBeastmakingFoxy ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Mar 31, 2025 • 1h 44min

#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year.Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Mar 28, 2025 • 18min

#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil’s InstagramEmil’s YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Mar 24, 2025 • 1h 35min

#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil’s InstagramEmil’s YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Mar 21, 2025 • 48min

#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!SHOW NOTES:Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

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