

The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books

Jan 26, 2026 • 1h 44min
#182 Melina Costanza — A Fairy Tale Ending, 3rd Place World Championship Debut, The Underdog, Stronger After A Major Injury, and Her Outdoor Era Begins
Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible.She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to sit out the entire World Cup series with a serious knee injury.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are you gunning for the 2028 Olympics?What is the prime age for being a competition climber?The role of JOY in greatness.Arnold Schwarzenegger!Indoor skin management vs. Outdoor skin management?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jan 19, 2026 • 1h 19min
Good Temps #9 — Live Streaming Free Soloing, Everyone Does V17 In RR, Wet Rock Common Sense, and 2025’s Winners / Losers / ’26 Predictions
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh2025 Top 3 Moments2025’s Biggest Winners2025’s Biggest Losers2026 Predictions & Wishes“Savage Downgrades”“Big Toe Condoms”Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jan 12, 2026 • 1h 53min
#181 Tim, My Dude — Chasing Mastery, The Challenge You Actually Want, V14 Highball FA, and Tim’s Approach To Coaching
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?Would you be willing to change your proposed grade of Mandala Sit to V14?SHOW NOTES:timkangcoaching.comFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jan 5, 2026 • 1h 38min
Board Talk #7 — New MoonBoard?!, Quantum Board, BL#9, and What’s Coming In 2026 with Benn Wheeler and Risotto Rhomboids
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board ClimbingMost Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)Everyone's Favorite and Least Favorite TB2 HoldsSHOW NOTES:StoneLine Podcast w/ Ben Moon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2W8P-tKM40Quantum Board Session w/ Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi: https://youtu.be/j-PMLkanWCQ?si=MdNKzok20A6IBPeDBoard Lords #9: https://youtu.be/xJcj99-_UVw?si=oiUbUzWUTXvFyAOLLumo board: https://www.lumoclimbing.com/Shiny Wall: https://shinywall.com/en/standard-max-full/Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Dec 29, 2025 • 1h 52min
[REDUX] Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
Sean Bailey, pro climber and Tokyo gym founder known for hard first ascents like Devilution, talks training, projecting tactics, and life between comps and rock. He explains how sport tactics inform bouldering. He compares Japan’s intense gym culture to U.S. comps and opens up about the financial and emotional realities of making climbing a career.

Dec 22, 2025 • 1h 34min
#180 ‘Anti-Mega’ — GP81’s Julian Acevedo and Zoe Sayetta On Building Elite Training Facilities For All Ages
Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community.GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? More gyms? More YTC’s? Can you do that while still being ‘anti-mega’?How you deal with serious issues from kids, like eating disorders, or serious anxiety around competition or falling?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Dec 15, 2025 • 1h 10min
Good Temps #8 — Ondra Flashes V15, The Future Of Climbing Holds, Granite Addicts, and The Ethics Of Flashing
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.Links to things mentioned:Ethan Salvo on Lucid Dreaming (V15): https://www.instagram.com/p/DR8AjooE_R8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Ben Kim on Lucid Dreaming: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRszUg_jyvi/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Pietro Vidi: https://www.instagram.com/pie.vidi/Mimic Holds: https://www.mimicholds.com/Absolute Climbing: https://www.absoluteclimbing.com/Chris Deuto and Ben Sotero do Cerro Torre: https://www.instagram.com/p/DR4mu_TDnLU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Bryce Viola V15 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRN02KnDEIt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Chaehyun Seo’s Oliana Trip: https://www.instagram.com/chaehyun.s/p/DRlCj1oEqyd/Adam Ondra Flashing V15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wk4aKdXC9gJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Dec 8, 2025 • 45min
#179 Annie Sanders — 1st US Woman To Win Bouldering And Lead WC’s, Comp Style Vs Her Style, and Where To Focus While Competing
Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started!Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future!Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why?How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing?Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Dec 1, 2025 • 1h 22min
Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries?
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.Board Climbs Mentioned:“Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy“All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire“I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato“One Leg Vet” V9 @40 on the TB2 Spray, by Joshua HorsleyMedia Mentioned:Sisu Project Video by Tension ClimbingBurden Of Dreams Video by Tension Climbing“what it’s like to train on the world’s most legendary board” by Wheel Rock“Spray Wall Series: Episode 13 - Herm Feissner's Home Wall” by Tension ClimbingPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):What are some off-the-wall exercises to get better at board climbing?What is the best angle for a non-adjustable home wall?Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Nov 26, 2025 • 47min
Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?!
BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’.‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy!This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE


