
#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox
The Testpiece Podcast
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Strength Training for Climbers
This chapter explores the benefits of using unlevel edges in climbing training, advocating for a focus on strength over specificity. It highlights the importance of assessing finger strength and adapting training methods to different holds, while cautioning against rapid increases in training load. The discussion emphasizes a tailored approach to training that takes into account personal biomechanics and the significance of explosive power for climbing performance.
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