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#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox

The Testpiece Podcast

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Finger Health and Climbing Performance

This chapter explores the effects of long-term climbing on finger health, emphasizing the inevitable arthritic changes but also the potential to manage pain and maintain quality of life through proper training and recovery. It highlights the advantages of starting climbing young, including enhanced finger anatomy and reduced injury risks, while also examining grip styles and the complexities of strength training in relation to climbing performance. The conversation reinforces the importance of a balanced approach to training that considers individual morphology and the diverse demands of different climbing holds.

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