Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar

Nov 6, 2024

Emil Abrahamsson, a rock climber known for his innovative 'No Hang' finger strength training protocol, joins Dr. Keith Baar, a professor of molecular exercise physiology and expert in connective tissue research. They delve into the groundbreaking 'Abra-hangs' study that defies traditional training norms. Key topics include the surprising results showing similar strength gains from 'no hang' and 'max hang' methods, implications for injury recovery, and ambitious plans for future research using extensive climber data.

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ANECDOTE

No Hang Protocol Origins

Emil Abrahamson's "No Hang" protocol involved 10 minutes of low-intensity hanging, twice daily.
He saw surprising finger strength gains, sparking online interest and further research.

INSIGHT

Connective Tissue Response to Load

Ligament loading research by Dr. Keith Baar showed that time under tension, not intensity, matters most for connective tissue growth.
Cells respond to loading for about 10 minutes, after which adaptation signals decrease while fatigue continues.

INSIGHT

Study Design

The study used Crimpt app data from climbers who did strength tests separated by 30-16 weeks.
Climbers were grouped by training type (climbing only, no hangs, max hangs, or both).

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Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:

Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
Accessing thousands of points of climber data
Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
The shocking results of the finger strength study
What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
Goals for more studies and exploring other variables

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Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.

Dr. Keith Baar's Article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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