Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar
Nov 6, 2024
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Emil Abrahamsson, a rock climber known for his innovative 'No Hang' finger strength training protocol, joins Dr. Keith Baar, a professor of molecular exercise physiology and expert in connective tissue research. They delve into the groundbreaking 'Abra-hangs' study that defies traditional training norms. Key topics include the surprising results showing similar strength gains from 'no hang' and 'max hang' methods, implications for injury recovery, and ambitious plans for future research using extensive climber data.
The Abrahang method shows that climbers can enhance finger strength with lighter loads, challenging traditional heavy loading training.
Connective tissue adaptation emerges as a critical focus in climbing training, emphasizing appropriate loading over solely muscular strength.
Future research aims to explore the impacts of varying training regimens on climbing performance and tendon health, paving the way for safer techniques.
Deep dives
The Shift in Climbing Training Philosophy
The conventional wisdom of 'no pain, no gain' in sports performance is being challenged by new findings. The podcast reveals that pain experienced during training serves a purpose, indicating that lower intensity training can yield positive results. Emphasizing lighter, controlled loads, the discussion introduces the concept of 'Abrahangs,' a training method where climbers engage in light hangs for 10 minutes, one to two times a day. This approach suggests that climbers can enhance their finger strength and health without risking injury through excessive loading.
The Role of Connective Tissue in Strength Training
A significant portion of the conversation revolves around the role of connective tissue in climbing training and how appropriate loading affects performance. Dr. Keith Barr shares his research indicating that the first 10 minutes of loading tendons significantly influence strength and health. By analyzing large datasets collected from users of the Crimp app, the researchers aimed to determine the effectiveness of different training protocols, including the highly popular no hang technique. This exploration indicates a potential shift toward focusing on connective tissue adaptation rather than solely muscular strength.
Impact of Abrahangs on Finger Strength
The podcast highlights an important study where climbers engaged in Abrahangs demonstrated notable increases in finger strength similar to those from traditional max hang training. Both training methods yielded comparable improvements, which challenges the traditional perception that heavy loading is essential for strength gains. Emil Abrahamson's experience with the no hang protocol sparked broader interest and practical experimentation within the climbing community. The significant findings suggest that climbers can potentially achieve similar strength enhancements with lighter training loads, thus reducing the risk of injury.
Backup Study Validating Training Protocols
The researchers undertook a retrospective study that involved analyzing climbers' performance based on their training habits documented in the Crimp app. The study examined four groups: those who only climbed, those who did no hangs, those focused on max hangs, and those incorporating both methods. The results revealed that while climbers exclusively doing max hangs showed strength improvements, those practicing Abrahangs achieved similar benefits. This leads to a recommendation for a more balanced approach, merging these two methodologies for optimal results.
Future Directions in Climbing Training Research
The podcast concludes with a discussion of future research opportunities to further understand the implications of Abrahangs and max hangs on climbing performance. Plans for conducting a prospective study at UC Davis aim to provide more controlled experiments on the effects of various training regimens. The researchers express excitement at the potential to quantify the impacts on tendon health and strength. This ongoing research not only champions the effectiveness of the no hang protocol but opens the door for climbers to incorporate safer, more effective training strategies into their routines.
Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.
Dr. Keith Baar's Article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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