The Struggle Climbing Show

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Mindset coach Neely Quinn explores: Pros and cons of being a perfectionist as a climber  How to embrace perfectionism (and keep it from ruining our climbing experience) How to quantify the amount of "suffering" we are willing to go through to improve as climbers Examining my "failed" spring season  Why it's important to celebrate the little things The three questions to ask oneself after every climbing session Is too much humility doing us a disservice? Why we fixate on the one thing that went wrong  Determining whether climbing is a fun outlet or a source of stress Process over progress and what that really looks like Why we often send when we least expect to A practical drill for overcoming fear of falling  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. -   Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right): 00:41 Guest Introduction: Neely Quinn from Training Beta 01:13 The Perfectionism Email and Personal Struggles 02:17 Community Questions and Performance Hacks 05:01 Host's Climbing Journey and Reflections 05:59 Diving into Perfectionism with Neely Quinn 21:37 Exploring the Roots of Perfectionism 29:00 Tools and Strategies for Overcoming Perfectionism 39:47 Validating Emotions and Positive Reflection 43:40 Balancing Pride and Shame in Climbing 44:54 The Evolutionary Basis of Negative Bias 45:41 Reflecting on Gratitude and Success 47:06 The Inner Coach: Self-Talk and Motivation 48:54 Therapy and Climbing: A Surprising Connection 49:40 Dealing with Regression in Climbing Performance 52:58 Setting Realistic Expectations and Goals 57:04 Embracing Process Over Outcome 59:27 Practical Process Goals for Climbers 01:04:46 Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence 01:13:10 Final Thoughts and Listener Questions 01:18:37 Conclusion and Bonus Content - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow   Book a session with Neely: https://www.neelyquinncoaching.com/climbing - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Weekend Warrior, Doug Hartman, joins the show to share: How to schedule workouts as a busy dad and ER doctor What worked (and didn't) on his road to 5.13a Comparing his hangboard numbers to mine What to do when a plateau hits How he broke through a hangboard plateau Why climbing fast isn't always best How gratitude helped him send his hardest route Going from noob to proficient Yosemite climber His four "rules" for crack climbing One simple tip to advance way faster in the Valley - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction to the Weekend Warrior Series 01:08 Meet Doug Hartman: The ER Doctor and Climber 01:38 Doug's Journey to Climbing 5.13a 02:15 Trad Climbing in Yosemite 03:43 Upcoming Events and Personal Updates 06:22 Doug's Climbing Background and Early Experiences 14:07 Training Strategies and Overcoming Plateaus 32:14 The Importance of Rest and Mental Strategies 44:24 Training for the Crux 45:13 Project Duration and Effort 46:54 Realizations and Training Adjustments 48:41 Fueling Gains with Fizzy Vantage Nutrition 50:05 Introduction to Trad Climbing 51:15 Four Realms of Trad Climbing 52:06 Crack Climbing Techniques 01:01:16 Mental Aspects of Trad Climbing 01:08:58 Final Thoughts and Goals 01:11:26 Yosemite Climbing Insights 01:17:25 Weekend Warrior Wrap-Up   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Jonathan Hörst explores: How to train hard when your gym lacks options His favorite way to build bulletproof endurance The undervalued skill of learning on to rest on route To run or not to run Was his the heaviest 9a send ever?  Bodyweight and composition for various climbing goals The snack he eats 30 mins prior to a send go Carbs, fat, protein, micronutrients... and how to time them His goal of becoming a 'climbing decathlete'  Overcoming low-confidence just before sending his hardest climb to date The epic new crag he's developing at the Red - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: Get your nutrition dialed! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated chapters: 07:50 STRUGGLE 16:28 TRAINING 38:34 NUTRITION 56:47 TACTICS 01:10:14 MENTAL GAME   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  -   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Lindsay Shaw explores: How to up- and down-regulate the nervous system to perform when it counts  Dealing with the inner critic  Music, breath work, and movie clips to control your stimulation level  The massive connection between sleep and performance  How to implement sleep extension intervention Relaxation techniques to improve rest and recovery Supplements to improve sleep Choosing between more sleep or more time to exercise Jet lag planning  Foods that help us to get better sleep  How to manage caffeine for performance and sleep  Effect of alcohol, THC, CBD, and Ambien on sleep quality  To learn more about Dr. Shaw's work or to get in touch with her, check out her website: https://www.drlindsayshaw.com/ - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - It's a podcast of podcasters! Live from Climber's Fest in Lander, WY, we crack a beer with the stoked festival goers and explore: What makes ICF and Wild Iris so special How a noob (like me) can best enjoy the festival and local climbing Climbing pet peeves The "blah blah blah" Dangerous crag practices Expanding vocabulary beyond "Let's goooooo!" Crag dogs, crag cats... and crag monkeys? What makes the climbing community so dang special - BIG THANKS TO WYOCLIMBERS AND ICF FOR PUTTING ON SUCH AN AMAZING EVENT! Also, shoutout to these sponsors for hooking festival goers up with some rad swag: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this episode, climbing coach Be Fuller explores: Vertical Dance theory Why climbing is not about the hands Unlocking rock overs, drop-knees, and flags Mastering the mysterious inside-edge flag Specific drills to help you get better TODAY The brain-body connection How to increase our climbing IQ (not just our grade) Optimizing fun while also improving performance Dealing with our inner critics Climbing Out Of Depression, and how the climbing community can help save lives - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Get coached by Be: https: https://www.beclimbing.co.uk/   Support the wonderful work of Climbing Out of Depression: https://cood.org.uk/donate/   - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:37 Recap of the International Climbers Festival 01:17 Upcoming Live Podcast Episode 01:44 Introduction to Coach Belinda Fuller 02:22 Coach Be's Climbing Philosophy 04:08 Coach Be's Journey and Teaching Approach 07:28 Vertical Dance Theory Explained 08:55 Common Climbing Techniques and Mistakes 18:14 Inside Edge Flag Technique 35:12 Importance of Hips in Climbing 37:52 Engaging the Glutes: The Coin Visualization 39:43 Lazy Butt Climbing: Pros and Cons 40:54 Relaxation Techniques for Climbers 45:10 Mental and Psychological Aspects of Climbing 46:31 Climbing Drills and Techniques 51:27 The Deeper Why: Understanding Climbing Motivation 58:03 Climbing Out of Depression: A Personal Journey 01:07:37 Supporting the Climbing Community 01:09:56 Conclusion and Final Thoughts   - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard.    And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this episode, we connect with Weekend Warrior Stephen Conti to explore: Going from beginner to V9 Transitioning from gym to crag Climbing hard at 200 lbs The key to steady progress Specific technique drills that yielded fast improvements Why finger training wasn't producing results Setting a goal for 50 days outside... and what it did to his climbing The surprising benefit of a spray wall The effects of gaining and losing 30 lbs His road to V11 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: The softest, most durable, and highest performing pants I've ever worn (on or off the rock). Check out my faves, the Harness Utility, and use code STRUGGLEPANTS for free shipping on any pair of pants!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 01:41 Host's Personal Climbing Experience 03:47 Upcoming Events and Announcements 04:52 Interview with Stephen Conti Begins 06:44 Stephen's Climbing Background 09:02 Training and Progression Insights 18:33 Skill Development and Drills 35:44 Memorizing Sequences for Climbing 37:47 Setting and Tracking Climbing Goals 39:24 Climbing in Challenging Conditions 43:24 Balancing Indoor and Outdoor Climbing 51:46 Managing Weight and Performance 01:11:22 Future Climbing Goals and Coaching 01:13:47 Conclusion and Final Thoughts - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Sonnie Trotter explores: The 5.15a he’s training for, and what he’s specifically doing  The visualization trick he uses to get better at climbing (while at home) Climbers who can do V14 on a board but not 5.10a outside  Training power vs endurance  Dreamcatcher dreams Dealing with fitness setbacks due to sickness or injury Board climbing for peak power How to improve footwork using hard gym climbs Managing fear on bold climbs and free solos Getting the kids into climbing  His new book Uplifted  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:51 Journey in Rock Climbing 01:30 Balancing Family and Climbing 02:02 Training and Rest Strategies 02:57 Current Projects and Fitness Regimen 04:10 The Legendary Cobra Crack 05:12 Mental Aspects of Climbing 06:05 Conversation with Sonnie Trotter Begins 07:03 Pivotal Moments in Climbing 14:10 Sonnie's Climbing Heroes and Influences 19:53 Nutritional Adjustments and Insights 33:19 Balancing Professional Climbing and Family Life 38:49 Sonnie's Current and Future Projects 39:27 Navigating Risk and Fear in Climbing 42:19 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 43:49 Coaching and parenting in Climbing 47:06 The Journey to Writing Uplifted 51:43 Stories and Reflections from the Book 59:50 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:02:45 Sonnie's Future Goals 01:08:48 Listener Questions and Final Thoughts - Check out Sonnie's wonderful book, Uplifted, available on Patagonia, Amazon, etc. - Meet me at ICF in Lander! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Jackie Hueftle and Kevin Cuckovich from Kilter join the pod to chat through our exciting partnership, including: The history and current landscape of system boards Where Kilter fits compared to the Moon Board and others Why adjustability and a dense variety of hold types matters Kevin's assessment of me as a boulderer Route climber pitfalls when we turn our sights to bouldering My current strengths and weaknesses Grades, and why they differ indoors, outdoors, and on boards A look ahead at my training journey The impact of endurance training on strength adaptations The surprising benefit of setting problems on the board How to get stronger fingers using larger holds - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score a free gift pack plus $500-$1000 off depending on your setup (Fullride, Mainline, and Auxiliary kits) let’s gooooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right): 00:46 Why Choose the Kilter Board? 01:53 Training and Goals with the Kilter Board 02:59 Meet the Experts: Jackie and Kevin 05:56 Jackie's Journey in Climbing and Route Setting 09:18 Kevin's Climbing and Training Background 12:44 The Evolution and Design of Kilter Boards 16:51 Comparing Kilter with Other Climbing Boards 22:42 Training Strategies and Goals for V8 31:53 Balancing Bouldering and Sport Climbing 33:09 Balancing Strength and Endurance in Climbing 35:07 Learning from Past Climbing Goals 36:04 Maximizing Home Wall Training 38:34 The Importance of Movement and Setting in Climbing 44:17 Consistency and Smart Training 46:30 Avoiding Pitfalls on the Kilter Board 52:05 Mastery and Skill Development in Climbing 55:06 Excitement for the Journey Ahead 59:42 Conclusion and Final Thoughts   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores: How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S. The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It) The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted What are the "rules" of climbing anyway? Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber How to have more fun as a climber right now - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com  Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!