Alan Watts: Cheater, Pariah, Hero. Following Your Heart and Tuning Out the Haters

Jun 18, 2025

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In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores:

How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb
The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S.
The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing
The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It)
The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted
What are the "rules" of climbing anyway?
Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad
Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers
Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber
How to have more fun as a climber right now

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts
00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences
01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing
02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing
02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing
04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections
05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements
06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins
07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock
14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing
19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques
33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It
38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing
39:27 The Controversial Route Theft
42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing
43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics
47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains
51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community
59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture
01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy
01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!