Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock
Aug 14, 2024
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Matt Samet, an elite climber, shares his journey through the highs and lows of climbing. He discusses the importance of tailored training and nutrition strategies that balance performance and well-being. Matt dives into the impact of anxiety on climbing, revealing techniques he uses to manage mental challenges. He also reflects on the evolution of climbing media and the power of literature in inspiring climbers. His insights on creating a supportive climbing community and the significance of failure as a learning tool are truly captivating.
Matt Samet highlights the importance of recognizing personal limitations and adjusting expectations to enjoy the climbing process despite challenges.
Training is essential for climbers, emphasizing personalized routines that target individual weaknesses and balance strength with endurance as one ages.
Nutrition plays a crucial role in climbing performance, with Matt sharing his journey toward a balanced, mostly plant-based diet while managing past eating disorders.
Matt discusses mental strategies, like visualization and breathing techniques, to cope with anxiety during climbs, demonstrating resilience applicable in various life situations.
Deep dives
Struggle in Climbing
The discussion centers around the daily challenges climbers face when trying to give their best effort on any given day. Matt emphasizes that finding the ability to push oneself can be complicated by various factors such as fitness levels, mental state, and external conditions. He points out that the essence of climbing joy lies in the process of trying hard, regardless of the outcome. The struggle to try your hardest becomes a fundamental aspect of what climbing means to him.
Learning from Experience
Matt reflects on how years of climbing have taught him to listen to his body and recognize the elements that affect his performance. He shares insights gained from various failures, such as the importance of hydration. He highlights that experience brings awareness of conditions that can hinder performance, and part of the struggle is accepting the need to adjust expectations based on those conditions. This perspective encourages a more pragmatic approach to climbing, allowing for enjoyment and growth despite challenges.
Training Philosophy and Approach
The conversation dives into Matt's training routine and his struggles with climbing power and endurance. He discusses how, coupled with his experience, he began to work with a coach to formulate a training program tailored to address his specific weaknesses. Training has become a central part of his climbing journey, aiming for a balance between strength and endurance as he continues to age. The emphasis on adapting training to personal needs and limitations is reiterated, signifying a growth mindset about improvement.
Nutrition's Role in Performance
Nutrition is tackled as a crucial aspect of climbing performance, with Matt relating his past struggles with eating disorders and how those experiences inform his current dietary choices. He now follows a mostly plant-based diet and shares how maintaining adequate nutrition and hydration is vital for his climbing lifestyle. Acknowledging the challenges in achieving a balanced diet while managing a busy life is key for him. His journey reveals an evolving understanding of the relationship between nutrition and overall well-being in climbing.
Mental Game and Anxiety Management
Matt opens up about the mental aspects of climbing, particularly anxiety related to redpoint attempts. He discusses various strategies he employs to manage pre-climb jitters and the importance of embracing the pressure that comes with trying hard routes. Techniques such as visualization, breathing exercises, and allowing oneself to simply climb without the weight of expectations are crucial in navigating fear and anxiety. This mindset reflects a broader lesson applicable to many aspects of life, showcasing resilience and self-acceptance.
Evolution of Climbing Media
The evolving landscape of climbing media is examined, highlighting the shift from print to digital platforms. Matt reflects on how traditional climbing storytelling has adapted to meet contemporary audiences' needs, with video content and social media being prominent. He acknowledges the democratization of climbing media, allowing a more diverse range of voices and stories to emerge. While this change brings about concerns regarding content quality and oversaturation, it also creates opportunities for deeper, more engaging storytelling.
Current Climbing Projects and Influences
Throughout the discussion, Matt shares his current climbing initiatives and projects, referencing various climbers and channels that influence him. He appreciates the contributions of others in the climbing community, who create engaging content that inspires him and adds depth to the sport. The beauty of collaboration and shared experiences in climbing is emphasized, showcasing how different perspectives enrich personal journeys. He encourages others to find and support the climbing stories and creators that resonate with them.
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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