542: New York Times Columnist Eric Kim Digs into Chicago Pizza, Jajangmyeon, and Softboy Foods
Feb 12, 2025
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In this engaging discussion, Eric Kim, a New York Times columnist and author of the bestselling cookbook 'Korean American,' shares his insights into food and culture. He dives into the fascinating world of Chicago-style deep dish pizza, unraveling its rich history, and contrasts it with Korean dishes like jajangmyeon. Eric also reveals his creative process behind developing simple, impactful recipes that connect culinary traditions. Additionally, the conversation touches on innovative culinary projects and nostalgic flavors that evoke joy and comfort.
Eric Kim's writing process combines lyrical prose with deep reporting, making food journalism both engaging and culturally insightful.
The importance of collaboration in food journalism is highlighted through events like Dumpling Week, fostering creativity among writers.
Eric emphasizes creating accessible 30-minute recipes to connect busy home cooks with meaningful family cooking experiences.
Deep dives
Southern California Food Road Trip
Eliza and Matt embarked on an extensive food road trip through Southern California, visiting numerous eateries including restaurants, breweries, and ice cream shops from San Diego to the San Gabriel Valley. They emphasized the thrill of discovering local culinary treasures and expressed a desire to support the featured establishments. The trip, made possible with support from Visit California, allowed them to explore the region's vibrant food scene while enjoying the sense of adventure inherent in a culinary journey. Their exploration highlights both the diverse food culture and the importance of enjoying and supporting local businesses.
Eric Kim's Unique Food Writing Style
Eric Kim, a prominent food columnist for The New York Times, possesses a distinctive blend of beautiful prose and insightful reporting that engages readers in the world of food and culture. In his recent return to the show, he discussed his writing process, sharing how he uncovers fascinating stories behind culinary staples like dumplings, Chicago pizza, and cream cheese. His ability to weave personal narratives with food history enables readers to connect emotionally with his columns. Kim's work reflects an ambition to not only inform but also to evoke nostalgia and appreciation for cultural food experiences.
Team Culture and Collaboration at The Times
Eric shared his experience working at The New York Times, highlighting the often solitary nature of writing amidst the bustling camaraderie of a collective of talented writers. Despite the feeling of loneliness inherent in the profession, he expressed excitement about the collaborative efforts during events such as Dumpling Week, where multiple writers contribute to a shared culinary theme. This teamwork allows for creative synergy, where ideas can flourish and innovative recipes are developed together. Kim's observations emphasize how such collaborative structures enhance the overall creativity of food journalism.
Exploration of Quick Recipes
In discussing his culinary direction for the year, Eric Kim emphasized his focus on developing 30-minute recipes that cater to the needs of busy home cooks. He believes that simple, quick-to-make dishes can still offer immense satisfaction while allowing families to enjoy cooking together. He spoke about creating a chicken bugogi recipe that was not only straightforward but also heartfelt, as it resonated with warm memories of family meals. This approach reinforces the idea that cooking doesn't have to be complex to be meaningful, and that good food can indeed be easy to prepare.
Addressing Cultural Authenticity in Food Writing
Eric touched on the challenges of writing about Korean cuisine amid scrutiny over authenticity, particularly from members of his own community. He acknowledged the complex feelings that arise when sharing innovative culinary interpretations and the backlash that can accompany such efforts. Over time, he has learned to embrace his unique perspective, which allows for greater creativity within the bounds of cultural cooking. His insights highlight a broader conversation regarding the evolution of food traditions and the importance of welcoming innovation while respecting the roots of diverse cuisines.
Eric Kim has a signature style with his writing, which has appeared frequently in the New York Times, where he is a columnist for the magazine. Eric blends a truly lyrical style of prose with deep reporting chops and a knack for simple and highly focused recipe development—a rare triple threat! He’s also the author of the best-selling cookbook Korean American. This is a return visit to the show for Eric, and we talk about his reporting process, how he unpacks big topics in food and culture in his columns, and some of his recent work, including dumplings, Chicago pizza, the origins of Philadelphia cream cheese, and many other memorable stories.
Also on the show, it’s the return of Three Things, where Aliza and Matt share what’s interesting in the world of restaurants, books, television, food products, and much more. On this episode: Birria La Flor is doing Tijuana-style birria in Brooklyn, Caroline Eden’s great memoir Cold Kitchen, Flour + Water dry pasta is terrific. Also, a Kingston, New York, scene check. Matt visits Pinkerton’s Bakery, Fantzye Bagels, and Sorry, Charlie. Also, also: Severance is a good show, and not Westworld (we hope), and Matt tries Frost Buttercream.
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