The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
TBP 257: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson
Apr 17, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson discusses advancements in finger endurance training, emphasizing efficient training methods and the difference between passive and active grip. He shares insights on a new protocol backed by research, challenges the 'no-hang protocol,' and addresses pulley cysts in injured patients. Bonus content on Patreon includes videos demonstrating upper extremity testing.
52:45
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Quick takeaways
- Adjusting training protocols for targeted finger endurance is crucial for climbers' performance improvement.
- Understanding the impact of active grips and muscle stress methods on finger training efficiency.
Deep dives
The Importance of Finger Training and New Discoveries
Get insights from Tyler Nelson, a trainer, and researcher, who shares new discoveries on finger endurance training. The episode delves into the significance of targeting finger flexor muscles, emphasizing stress methods for effective muscular endurance training.
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