Optimizing Finger Endurance Training for Climbers

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he's discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

• Continuation of our last episode on finger endurance
• Difference between passive and active grip in finger training
• What a protocol using this new info looks like
• Research backing it up
• His thoughts on the no-hang protocol
• Why he sees pulley cysts all the time in his injured patients

Tyler was kind enough to provide me with 5 videos from his upcoming course on Upper Extremity Testing for the TrainingBeta Patreon page. In these videos, he clearly demonstrates how to do these 5 tests on your fingers using a Tindeq:

1. 5-second Hang
2. Aerobic Capacity
3. Anaerobic Capacity
4. Anaerobic Power
5. Finger Max Curl Test

Watch those videos and all the other podcast bonuses by signing up for a free 7-day trial on Patreon.