8min chapter

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 257: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

CHAPTER

Reconsidering Finger Endurance Training

The chapter challenges the popular 'no hang protocol' in finger endurance training, encouraging climbers to understand the risks and focus on recovery. It emphasizes targeted training interventions, like using specialized tools such as the wet stone board, to enhance finger strength efficiently. The discussion also addresses the misconception around taking breaks from climbing and stresses the importance of rest and lifestyle habits on long-term performance.

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