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Dan’s Genesis of Beastmaker
- Dan Varian began fingerboarding out of frustration with beginner-level boards available in the early 2000s.
- He crafted the first Beastmaker fingerboard in his university accommodation to test and push his grip strength.
Use Fingerboarding Efficiently
- Train fingerboard modules specifically if you're time poor and want efficient gains.
- Fingerboarding focuses training on isolated finger strength, unlike climbing walls which train multiple factors at once.
Wrist Strength Is Key
- Wrist strength plays a critical, often overlooked role in climbing performance.
- Maintaining wrist strength while changing wrist positions improves control on hard slopers and complex holds.