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Lattice Training Podcast

Latest episodes

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Feb 8, 2025 • 53min

Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.Key Takeaways:Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Jan 18, 2025 • 1h 37min

Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “comfort crisis” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth.Key Takeaways:Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference.Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start.The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond.Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training.Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance.👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Dec 21, 2024 • 1h 10min

Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.Key TakeawaysMelissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Nov 30, 2024 • 1h 12min

Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope

Coach Cam Hartley, a climbing coach at Lattice Training, joins climber Maddy Cope to bust endurance training myths in climbing. They delve into the effectiveness of low-intensity steady state (LISS) versus high-intensity interval training (HIIT) and how climbers can personalize their training. Cam introduces a five-step self-experimentation method for optimizing performance, emphasizing recovery and training balance. Packed with practical insights, this discussion is perfect for anyone looking to elevate their endurance skills on the rock!
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Nov 9, 2024 • 1h 4min

How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs.Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job, set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes.If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars.Key Takeaways:Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El CapitanHow competition climbing skills apply to big wallsEndurance training and preparation for big wall climbingHighlights from the upcoming film The Nose JobJoin Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Oct 26, 2024 • 1h 25min

9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering

Will Bosi, an elite climber known for his impressive second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn, delves into his groundbreaking training techniques and mental strategies in this engaging conversation. He discusses adapting climbing sequences for personal performance and the importance of energy conservation. Will also addresses the subjective nature of climbing grades and the impact of conditions on ascents. Plus, he shares insights on his innovative chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, designed to optimize grip in challenging environments.
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Sep 21, 2024 • 10min

Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting.Topics Covered:Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks.Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades.The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable.Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits.For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Sep 14, 2024 • 21min

Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr, about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes.Key topics include:Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development.Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance.Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level.Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches.For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 31, 2024 • 46min

Breaking Barriers: Jen Wood's Historic First Ascent and Climbing Evolution

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet—Vela Stivina in Croatia—sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits.Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures.Key Takeaways:Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence.Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment.Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing.Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies.Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals.Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles.Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits.Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding.Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence.Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching.Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 24, 2024 • 10min

Highlight: Postpartum Power: Sarah Duvall on Climbing, Core Strength, and Recovery After Pregnancy

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries.Key Topics Include:Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned.Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery.Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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