From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing
Mar 22, 2025
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Drew Ruana, one of the strongest climbers globally, combines high-level climbing with a degree in computer science. In this engaging discussion, he shares his unique "Level 4 Beta" system for optimizing climbing efficiency. Drew delves into the mental aspects of climbing, tackling burnout, and emphasizes the significance of goal-setting and patience. He also reflects on balancing academics with his climbing passion and the importance of adapting training methods for long-term success. His insights reveal the mindset necessary to excel both physically and mentally in the climbing world.
Drew Ruana emphasizes the importance of balancing academic responsibilities with climbing by opting for shorter sessions to maintain fitness and mental clarity.
His structured training approach, incorporating weightlifting and calisthenics, has significantly enhanced his climbing performance beyond traditional methods.
Drew advocates for setting specific, achievable goals and tracking progress as essential tools for staying motivated and assessing growth in climbing.
Deep dives
Balancing Academic Life and Climbing
The speaker discusses the challenge of balancing academic commitments with climbing pursuits. After completing a demanding study cycle, they express that maintaining fitness while studying can be tough, illustrating that it's one thing to excel indoors at climbing and another to perform well outside after a long break. They have adapted their routine, often opting for shorter climbing sessions to keep active without sacrificing study time. This approach helps them rejuvenate mentally while ensuring that they do not neglect their physical fitness.
Evolving Relationship with Climbing
The speaker reflects on how their relationship with climbing has transformed over the years, particularly since moving to Colorado. Initially focused on outdoor climbing and achieving hard boulders, they transitioned to a more structured training approach due to the pressures of school and limited climbing opportunities. They highlight the importance of adapting their goals and expectations over time, acknowledging that this evolution is part of their growth as a climber. The realization that training could complement outdoor performance has led to a more balanced perspective on climbing.
Training Philosophy and Exploration of Strengths
A significant portion of the conversation focuses on the speaker's training philosophy that emphasizes body conditioning and conditioning workouts to enhance outdoor climbing skills. They believe that strength training, rather than solely climbing-specific training, has drastically improved their overall climbing performance. By engaging in weight lifting and calisthenics, the speaker has observed direct benefits in their climbing ability and has gained valuable insights into the connection between physical fitness and climbing success. They encourage exploration of diverse training methods that contribute to different aspects of climbing.
The Importance of Curiosity in Climbing
The speaker emphasizes the role of curiosity and experimentation in advancing climbing skills, particularly in perfecting beta for climbs. They explain that understanding movement patterns and exploring different techniques can significantly enhance climbing performance. By being open to trying various approaches, the speaker has cultivated a playful attitude towards challenges, focusing on what they can learn from each experience. This curiosity leads to personal growth and a deeper appreciation for the sport.
Mental Resilience and the Climbing Mindset
Mental resilience is another vital topic described by the speaker, as they share how their mindset impacts climbing performance. They highlight the significance of maintaining a positive attitude, even during challenging moments when they may feel burnt out or frustrated. The ability to push through mental obstacles has contributed to their success in projects, as they cultivate an environment of self-encouragement and patience. Emphasizing that effort is built on emotional stability, the speaker believes that mental strength is equally important as physical capability in climbing.
Setting Goals and Measuring Progress
Setting specific and achievable goals is a key strategy for the speaker in their climbing journey, which involves creating a structured approach to tracking progress. They share how they maintain a list of climbing projects, drawing motivation from checking items off that list. This systematic way of managing their climbing ambitions helps maintain focus and provides direction, making it easier to assess where to direct their efforts. The speaker asserts that celebrating small victories is just as crucial as reaching significant milestones in growth as a climber.
In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana, one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science.
From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally.
Other topics covered:
The role of structured vs. intuitive training
How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance
The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term
Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing
His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance
Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success.
🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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