Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope
Nov 30, 2024
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Coach Cam Hartley, a climbing coach at Lattice Training, joins climber Maddy Cope to bust endurance training myths in climbing. They delve into the effectiveness of low-intensity steady state (LISS) versus high-intensity interval training (HIIT) and how climbers can personalize their training. Cam introduces a five-step self-experimentation method for optimizing performance, emphasizing recovery and training balance. Packed with practical insights, this discussion is perfect for anyone looking to elevate their endurance skills on the rock!
Endurance training is essential for all climbers, enhancing both performance and recovery, regardless of their specific climbing focus.
Understanding the differences between low-intensity steady-state (LISS) and high-intensity interval training (HIIT) is crucial for optimizing energy systems.
A structured self-experimentation process allows climbers to personalize their training methods for improved endurance and overall performance.
Deep dives
Understanding Endurance Training
Endurance is a crucial component for all climbers, regardless of their primary focus. It refers to the ability to maintain physical effort over extended periods, allowing climbers to regenerate energy and perform efficiently. This endurance is connected to both aerobic and anaerobic energy systems, which together support recovery between climbs and sustained performance during extended sequences. Addressing endurance misconceptions is essential for climbers to recognize its significance, not only for long routes but also for bouldering, where recovery plays a vital role.
Utilizing Energy Systems for Performance
The podcast discusses two primary energy systems: the aerobic and anaerobic. The aerobic system relies on oxygen to produce energy from fat and glucose, while the anaerobic system generates energy without oxygen, primarily utilizing stored ATP. Understanding how these systems function allows climbers to tailor their endurance training to their specific needs, whether that be improving recovery during sessions or enhancing energy output during climbs. This tailored approach can lead to significant performance improvements, particularly for climbers who typically focus on high-intensity efforts.
The Role of Training Methods
Training methods are categorized into low-intensity steady-state and high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Low-intensity sessions focus on aerobic capacity and muscle recovery, fostering endurance through prolonged, less strenuous activities. In contrast, HIIT emphasizes anaerobic capacity, incorporating short bursts of intense effort followed by rest to develop power endurance. By integrating both training methods into a regimen, climbers can optimize their performance and ensure they meet the physiological demands of their climbing endeavors.
Debunking Common Myths
Several misconceptions persist regarding endurance training in climbing. One such myth is that boulderers do not need endurance training, which overlooks the inherent demands of session-length recovery and energy management. Additionally, the belief that endurance training must always feel exhausting is counterproductive; effective training should target specific adaptations without overwhelming fatigue. By understanding the nuanced benefits of endurance training, climbers can adopt more efficient methods that enhance their overall performance.
A Step-by-Step Self-Experimentation Process
A systematic approach to training self-experimentation involves five steps: observation, testing, intervention, retesting, and evaluation. Beginning with hypothesis formulation, athletes analyze their performance and identify areas for improvement. By conducting baseline tests and implementing specific training interventions, they can gauge results through retesting and reflect on progress. This process fosters learning and adaptation, allowing climbers to refine their training strategies and better align with their performance goals.
In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.
Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.
Key Takeaways:
Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers
LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance
Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance
Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone
Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness
Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!