TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
Nov 22, 2019
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Kris Hampton, climbing coach, shares 6 movement drills to improve climbing. They discuss the balance between work and climbing, self-awareness, exploring new techniques, and specific movement drills like Deadstops. They highlight the importance of pace and weight in climbing, incorporating movement drills into climbing sessions, and the value of experimentation and playfulness in climbing.
The podcast emphasizes the importance of drills for improving technique and movement in rock climbing, with a focus on aspects such as tension, rhythm, accuracy, pace, and weight.
The episode highlights the value of exploring different techniques and movements, even ones that may not be familiar, and pushing oneself outside of comfort zones to develop new skills and perspectives in climbing.
The sloth monkey drill and the one-touch drill are two specific movement drills discussed that can improve efficiency, fluidity, decision-making, and energy conservation in climbing.
Deep dives
Drills for Technique and Movement
One of the main points discussed in this podcast episode is the importance of drills for improving technique and movement in rock climbing. These drills focus on key aspects such as tension, rhythm, accuracy, pace, and weight. Some specific drills mentioned include dead stops to improve tension, rhythm drills like the sloth drill, accuracy drills like the one-touch drill, and weight drills like heavy feet. These drills can be practiced during warm-ups or integrated into climbing sessions at varying difficulty levels, starting from easy terrain and progressing to more challenging climbs.
The Importance of Awareness and Mastery
Another main idea discussed in the episode is the importance of awareness and mastery in climbing. The podcast emphasizes the need to not just settle for success in climbing, but to continually strive for mastery and improvement. This involves being aware of areas for improvement, such as technique and movement, and actively working on them through deliberate practice. The episode highlights the value of exploring different techniques and movements, even ones that may not be familiar, and pushing oneself outside of comfort zones to develop new skills and perspectives.
Applying Drills in Climbing Sessions
The episode offers guidance on when and how to incorporate the discussed drills into climbing sessions. It suggests starting with new skills during warm-ups on easy terrain, gradually increasing the difficulty as proficiency improves. It is recommended to practice drills during moments when one feels slightly uncomfortable, as this indicates a prime learning opportunity. As mastery is achieved, the drills can be applied in more challenging climbs, eventually leading to recognition and integration of learned skills in daily climbing performance. The host also emphasizes the importance of consistently including drills in climbing sessions to optimize skill development.
Importance of Rhythm in Climbing
In this podcast episode, Chris Hampton discusses the importance of rhythm in climbing. He introduces the sloth monkey drill, where climbers practice slow and controlled movement like a sloth, and contrast it with a fast and flowing rhythm like a monkey. Hampton explains that switching between these two rhythms can improve efficiency and fluidity in climbing, allowing climbers to navigate cruxes and easier sections with ease.
Training Accuracy in Climbing
Another key point in the podcast episode is the importance of accuracy in climbing. Hampton shares a drill called 'one touch,' where climbers are encouraged to touch each hold only once with their hands and feet without readjusting. By practicing precision and avoiding unnecessary adjustments, climbers can improve their decision-making, become more efficient, and conserve energy during climbs.