E72: Ollie Torr - Coaching the pros, being one of the brains behind Lattice and long baths with jockeys
Nov 15, 2023
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Coaching climbing success with Ollie Torr, Lattice creation and overcoming challenges. Importance of high energy in training. Considering different perspectives and tactical approaches. Learning from other sports. Developing capacitors in training. Blurred line between strength and mental coaching. Maintenance lifts and shoulder work. Understanding strength blocks. Training to improve climbing style. Discussion on Kyrgyzstan climbing and logistics.
Having a strong training partner or climbing community can lead to faster learning and improved performance.
Approaching training with a playful mindset can enhance the learning process and create more pleasure in climbing experiences.
Having a training community can provide support, accountability, and inspiration.
Being open to receiving advice and suggestions from climbers of different skill levels can cultivate a mindset of open-mindedness and creativity.
During the base training phase, climbers focus on establishing a strong foundation for future performance by developing strength, improving movement patterns, and building fitness levels.
Deep dives
The importance of camaraderie and sharing ideas
Having a strong training partner or climbing community is crucial for pushing oneself and sharing ideas. Camaraderie and bouncing ideas off each other can lead to faster learning and improved performance. A supportive and collaborative environment can help climbers try harder and think creatively in their training or climbing sessions.
The value of mindset and playfulness in training
Approaching training with a playful mindset can enhance the learning process and create more pleasure in climbing experiences. Embracing the process and focusing on movement patterns and adaptations can also lead to improved performance. The mindset of being open-minded and willing to try can lead to greater growth and development in climbing.
The benefits of the training community
Having a training community can provide support, accountability, and inspiration. Training partners can push each other to try harder, provide feedback, and share ideas. By creating a positive and collaborative environment, climbers can enhance their training sessions and accelerate their progress.
The importance of receiving advice and being open-minded
Being open to receiving advice and suggestions, even from climbers of different skill levels, can cultivate a mindset of open-mindedness and creativity. Collaborating and exploring new ideas with climbing partners can lead to new insights and improvement in climbing performance.
Building Foundation in Base Training Phase
During the base training phase, climbers focus on establishing a strong foundation for future performance. This phase typically involves laying the groundwork through a combination of strength and endurance training. The emphasis is on developing fundamental strength, improving movement patterns, and building fitness levels. This is an important phase as it helps climbers prepare their bodies for more intense and specialized training in the future.
Balancing Strength and Hypertrophy
In terms of strength training, climbers need to strike a balance between developing strength and gaining muscle mass (hypertrophy). While hypertrophy training may be more beneficial for certain climbers, especially those looking to improve strength-to-weight ratios, it may not be as necessary for climbers who already possess significant muscle mass. It ultimately depends on individual goals, body composition, and performance preferences. Additionally, strategically incorporating maintenance lifts and focused endurance work can help promote overall strength and prevent muscle imbalances.
Periodizing Training for Optimal Performance
When structuring a training program, climbers often cycle through different training phases, including base training, strength training, and performance-specific training. The base training phase typically focuses on building overall fitness, improving movement patterns, and addressing any weaknesses. This phase is then followed by more targeted strength training to develop specific muscle groups and enhance climbing power. Finally, climbers enter a performance-specific phase where they focus on honing their skills and preparing for specific types of climbs or competitions. This periodization approach allows for systematic progression and optimal performance during peak times.
Importance of Base Training in Climbing
One key insight discussed in the podcast is the significance of base training in climbing. The speaker explains that climbers often perform better during specific seasons, like spring and autumn, due to factors like fatigue levels and weather conditions. To optimize performance, climbers engage in base training during off-peak seasons. During this phase, they focus on building foundational physiological attributes such as endurance, muscle mass, and forearm strength. This base training period lays the groundwork and prepares the climber for peak performance in the future.
The Role of Strength Blocks in Climbing
Another important concept mentioned is the use of strength blocks in climbing training. A strength block refers to a focused training phase lasting one or two mesocycles, typically three weeks. During this block, climbers prioritize strength training, which could involve activities like climbing hard problems on a board or performing conditioning exercises that target strength development. The goal is to improve maximum strength and engage in exercises that are specifically tailored towards strength building. By integrating strength blocks strategically into their training, climbers can enhance their overall climbing ability and reach new levels of performance.
We were thrilled to have Ollie Torr this week. The guy really knows his stuff when it comes to coaching climbing. As well as being a strong climber himself, the people he coaches have enjoyed massive success. We got him talking about all kinds of stuff, and some of it might just be useful!
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