The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

In this engaging conversation, Daniel Woods, a legendary professional rock climber, shares insights into his incredible climbing journey and the ever-evolving landscape of the sport. He discusses his experiences with challenging routes like 'Return of the Sleepwalker' and 'Alphane', emphasizing the mental resilience needed in climbing. Woods explores the shift in climbing techniques across generations, the ethics of route preservation, and the joyful artistry involved in climbing. Plus, he reveals memorable moments involving wine and community competitions!

Kai Lightner, a professional climber and founder of Climb for Change, shares his inspiring journey of resilience and personal growth after overcoming significant challenges. He discusses the impact of height on climbing performance and advocates for body acceptance in the sport. The conversation highlights the importance of empathy within the climbing community, particularly for marginalized voices, while promoting self-fulfillment over competition. Kai's story reinforces the need for connection, understanding, and social justice in the world of climbing.

Ben Norman and Cailean Harker, co-founders of Impact Route Setting and seasoned route setters in the UK, share insights about the climbing industry. They delve into the nuances of indoor grading and the impact of recent IFSC scoring changes on route setting. The duo emphasizes the importance of creativity and safety in route design while navigating the evolving expectations of climbers. They also tackle the balance between aesthetics and functionality in climbing holds, and reflect on fostering inclusivity in climbing experiences for all skill levels.

Join Aidan and Sam as they navigate Aidan's transition from Yosemite and ponder life in America. They dive into the new IFSC scoring system for bouldering competitions, discussing its potential impact on the sport's fairness. The duo also stirs the pot with a thought-provoking debate on whether sport climbers should bolt on resin holds to protect natural rock, navigating the ethics of climbing holds and community perceptions. It's a lively conversation that blends personal experiences with the complexities of climbing culture!

Join strong boulderer Eric Jerome, known for identifying the best climbing spots in the US and contributing to climbing history. He shares insights into his journey, including the challenges of curation and evaluating climbing quality. Discover why he chose a less popular area for climbing, his previous struggles with an eating disorder, and the lessons he’s learned. Eric also discusses his work with KAYA, which focuses on responsible sharing and access ethics in the climbing community.

Katie Lamb, the trailblazing climber known for her historic ascent of V16, returns to share her latest achievement. She dives into the complex interplay of personal motivations and societal perceptions in climbing, especially as a female athlete. The conversation touches on the mental hurdles climbers face, the challenges of seeking recognition, and the importance of staying true to one’s journey. With a sprinkle of humor, they even share whimsical tales about a childhood pet hedgehog, Sid, making for a delightful mix of serious and light-hearted discussion.

Joining us this week is coach of the stars (and other less successful (but no less valuable) rock climbers) Charlie Schreiber! We had a really good time chatting to Charlie, it was fun but also we got some good insights from a guy who has been through quite a lot of the ups and downs that climbing has to offer. I reckon this is a good'un!Check out www.paradigmclimbing.com or @paradigm_climbing_training on Instagram if you're interested in getting coached by Charlie. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We were excited to be joined by Will this week. Will has been one of the most frequently requested guests on our discord. He's one of the brains behind Tension climbing, and so he knows a heck of a lot about one of our favourite topics, board climbing! He also used to be a coach and has clearly spent a lot of time thinking about training in general and has some great takes. Hope you enjoy!If you're enjoying our podcast then please do consider checking out our Patreon page : https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We were psyched to have Carlo Traversi joining us on the pod this week! He's an incredibly accomplished climber. developer and now gym owner! We chat about the gym, his changing motivations as he gets older and became a father, development in Yosemite and how to keep an incredible bouldering area off the map (just kidding). If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider joining our fine and handsome community of distinguished Patroons! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Allison is a pretty great podcast guest! She's talented and accomplished but also honest and has a great sense of humour. We're fans of her and Kyra's podcast (CircleUp, check it out) and so it was a real treat to complete the set and have her on our rambly mess of a podcast to go along with Kyra's episode. We talk about the transition to outdoor climbing, the pressures of projecting, trying to enjoy the process without letting failure get you down and of course we couldn't let her go without a quick interrogation about her frankly ludicrously strong digits, not even we could fail to bring that up!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show