The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

Natasha Barnes, a former professional climber and national bouldering champion, passionately discusses the transformative power of strength training. She shares her journey from injury to recovery through powerlifting, emphasizing the importance of tailored strength programs for climbers. The conversation dives into how strength training empowers women and influences body image, along with the benefits of training for various demographics. Natasha also offers insights on navigating the overwhelming information on rehabilitation, encouraging intentional climbing and structured training for optimal performance.

Austin Hoyt, a former competition climber and rock-wonder from the Northeast, dives into the thriving climbing culture of his region. He shares insights on local legends and burgeoning talent, revealing unique techniques like the coordination double clutch. The conversation takes a twist as they discuss Finland’s lesser-known bouldering opportunities. Austin reflects on the balance between competition and outdoor climbing, emphasizing community dynamics and emotional bonds among climbers. Get ready for an inspiring and fun journey through the rocks of the Northeast!

The hosts dive into the interplay between climbing risks and social media's impact on climbers' choices. They share insights on training routines and the psychological aspects of professional climbing. Delving into a daring challenge near Las Vegas, they discuss the thrill of adventure versus safety. The conversation turns to the motivations behind risky feats and the importance of community support. A hilarious tale emerges when one climber attempts a traverse in two left shoes, highlighting the quirky dynamics of the climbing world.

In this engaging conversation, Daniel Woods, a legendary professional rock climber, shares insights into his incredible climbing journey and the ever-evolving landscape of the sport. He discusses his experiences with challenging routes like 'Return of the Sleepwalker' and 'Alphane', emphasizing the mental resilience needed in climbing. Woods explores the shift in climbing techniques across generations, the ethics of route preservation, and the joyful artistry involved in climbing. Plus, he reveals memorable moments involving wine and community competitions!

Kai Lightner, a professional climber and founder of Climb for Change, shares his inspiring journey of resilience and personal growth after overcoming significant challenges. He discusses the impact of height on climbing performance and advocates for body acceptance in the sport. The conversation highlights the importance of empathy within the climbing community, particularly for marginalized voices, while promoting self-fulfillment over competition. Kai's story reinforces the need for connection, understanding, and social justice in the world of climbing.

Ben Norman and Cailean Harker, co-founders of Impact Route Setting and seasoned route setters in the UK, share insights about the climbing industry. They delve into the nuances of indoor grading and the impact of recent IFSC scoring changes on route setting. The duo emphasizes the importance of creativity and safety in route design while navigating the evolving expectations of climbers. They also tackle the balance between aesthetics and functionality in climbing holds, and reflect on fostering inclusivity in climbing experiences for all skill levels.

Join Aidan and Sam as they navigate Aidan's transition from Yosemite and ponder life in America. They dive into the new IFSC scoring system for bouldering competitions, discussing its potential impact on the sport's fairness. The duo also stirs the pot with a thought-provoking debate on whether sport climbers should bolt on resin holds to protect natural rock, navigating the ethics of climbing holds and community perceptions. It's a lively conversation that blends personal experiences with the complexities of climbing culture!

Join strong boulderer Eric Jerome, known for identifying the best climbing spots in the US and contributing to climbing history. He shares insights into his journey, including the challenges of curation and evaluating climbing quality. Discover why he chose a less popular area for climbing, his previous struggles with an eating disorder, and the lessons he’s learned. Eric also discusses his work with KAYA, which focuses on responsible sharing and access ethics in the climbing community.

Katie Lamb, the trailblazing climber known for her historic ascent of V16, returns to share her latest achievement. She dives into the complex interplay of personal motivations and societal perceptions in climbing, especially as a female athlete. The conversation touches on the mental hurdles climbers face, the challenges of seeking recognition, and the importance of staying true to one’s journey. With a sprinkle of humor, they even share whimsical tales about a childhood pet hedgehog, Sid, making for a delightful mix of serious and light-hearted discussion.

Joining us this week is coach of the stars (and other less successful (but no less valuable) rock climbers) Charlie Schreiber! We had a really good time chatting to Charlie, it was fun but also we got some good insights from a guy who has been through quite a lot of the ups and downs that climbing has to offer. I reckon this is a good'un!Check out www.paradigmclimbing.com or @paradigm_climbing_training on Instagram if you're interested in getting coached by Charlie. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show