The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

E178: The future for indoor and outdoor climbing, coming off the fence about recent developments

15 snips
Dec 10, 2025
The hosts tackle the evolving landscape of indoor and outdoor climbing. They discuss the unique challenges faced by independent gyms in London versus chain establishments. Sam shares his progress on a Yosemite project, while Aidan recounts his cramped trip to a unique climbing gym. The conversation includes the intriguing 9A+ grading debate and the community's complexities around grading standards. With a focus on tenacity and modern training methods, they explore how climbing accessibility and culture are shifting.
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ANECDOTE

Japanese-Style Independent Gym Standout

  • Aidan visited Climbing Gym Sen in London and found its Japanese-set style uniquely challenging and nuanced.
  • The gym flies in Japanese setters and creates routes that even strong climbers find technically interesting.
INSIGHT

Independents Drive Diversity, But Face Financial Threats

  • Independent gyms pursue distinct experiences that chains rarely replicate due to formulaic scaling.
  • Financial pressures and rate changes are forcing many independents to sell to chains, narrowing variety.
ADVICE

Choose Nuance Over Volume For Skill Growth

  • Visit nuanced small gyms to learn intricate movement and improve technical climbing skills.
  • Prioritize gyms where setters invest time in subtle problems rather than mere physical jug runs.
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