Lattice Training Podcast

In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall. She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah.This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz, but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this gnarly route.They talk through  Mary’s approach to climbing and training, highlighting how she has never thought of herself as a ‘talented’ or ‘natural’ climber. They delve into the lifestyle challenges that accompany training and climbing when pushing higher grades.Key topics covered include:Mary's climbing journey and her limited knowledge of training methods in the early yearsHow she embraces the concept of learning through failure and the impact this has had on her climbingHow her approach to climbing and training differed as she progressed to 5.12a/f7aWhat training strategies did she adopt that propelled her into the 5.13a/f7c+ gradesSharing top tips she has learnt over five years of focusing on pushing her climbing performanceWant to hear more from Mary Eden and Tom Randall? Head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘Cousin of Death’ (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘East Coast Fist Bump’ (5.14a/8b+).This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “Stranger Than Fiction” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 2015.Lor’s projecting process fascinated and continues to impress us here at Lattice, as they have a unique approach to dealing with the physical, mental and technical aspects of projecting complex routes over a long time period. Whilst Lattice has worked with many athletes over the years who’ve had season-long projects, it’s always remarkable to see someone achieve their multi-year project!Key topics:Lor finding and sampling ‘Stranger than Fiction’Mental tools for dealing with the uncertainty of technical trad routes The type of training they did with their Lattice coach Maddy CopeUsing gratitude as a tool when long-term projectingJuggling work with the climbing lifestyleTools they used to progress every season on ‘Stranger than Fiction’How their training led to a leap in their bouldering gradeWant to learn more about how a Performance Coaching Plan can help you achieve your goals? Head over to the Lattice Training website to find out more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with.They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold, Toby Roberts, and even Emily Harrington’s coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast!The main topics are:Are Pros all-rounders?Choosing prioritiesIs it better to climb or train more?Is it better to work finger strength on the wall or on a fingerboard?What type of endurance works best?With lots of examples based on the notable climbers we work with.What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Dan Hipkiss, coach to 'The Stoltman Brothers', discusses frequency and volume of strength training, training weaknesses, injury prevention, and using deload cycles to get stronger. They also explore how sports like powerlifting, CrossFit, and Olympic weightlifting can influence climbing training. Find out more about these topics and how they can benefit your climbing on this episode.

Pete Whittaker, a professional climber, joins the podcast to discuss his latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale. They dive into Pete's assessment techniques before training and his training structure. They also talk about what Pete has learned from climbers with different strengths and how he stays motivated. The podcast explores the challenges of Crown Royale, the benefits of shoulder training, managing injuries in climbing, and the value of adapting styles and replica training.

Welcome to another exciting episode of 'This or That,' where our host, Tom Randall, is about to challenge our guest's climbing training preferences. Today's special guest is none other than Ollie Torr, the co-founder of Lattice and one of our world class coaches in the Lattice team.While we all recognize Ollie for his exceptional coaching skills, what you may not know is that he brings a wealth of experience from his years in gymnastics and coaching training. His background equips him with a unique and expert perspective when tackling these rapid-fire questions. So, find a comfortable seat because Tom and Ollie are about to dive deep into the following debates:-Kilterboard or Moonboard-10mm or 20mm for finger strength-ARC and continuity or high-intensity intervals for route climbers-Low reps or high reps for building strength-Starting young and specializing or beginning later and pursuing a broader approach...and that's just the beginning. Stay tuned for a lively discussion on these topics and more!Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Guests: Ollie Torr (coaching V17 climbers & Olympics), Will Bosi, Toby Roberts, Tommy Caldwell. Main topics: training weaknesses, Olympics preparation, game-changing exercises, coming back stronger from injury, coaching V17 climbers.

Tom Randall chats with Lena Müller, creator of the Ecopoint concept. They discuss sustainable climbing, defining Ecopointing, limitations and future of ecopointing, and how to do your part. Check out Lena's website for more inspiration and information!

Experienced climber Eric Horst joins Tom Randall to discuss training for aging climbers. They cover topics such as strength and power training, endurance training, high-intensity interval training, recovery strategies, and nutrition. They also highlight the importance of adaptation and adjustment as climbers age and discuss the joy and fulfillment of climbing for longevity.

In this second part of Tom Randall's conversation with Allegra Maguire, they delve into the captivating topic of the Individual Zone of Optimal Functioning (ZOF).If you're looking to take your climbing performance to the next level, this episode is a must-listen. Tom and Allegra unpack the concept of the ZOF and reveal how understanding and harnessing it can lead to incredible breakthroughs on the wall.Discover practical strategies for identifying your own ZOF, from seeking external feedback to leveraging the power of journaling. But that's not all – Tom and Allegra go beyond theory and share actionable techniques to help you actually get into your ZOF. You'll learn how to create routines, leverage music, harness the power of breathing exercises, and utilise effective self-talk to unlock your optimal mental state for peak performance.Whether you're a beginner climber seeking to enhance your mindset or an experienced athlete striving for that competitive edge, this episode is packed with valuable insights and techniques to help you tap into your Individual Zone of Optimal Functioning.Don't miss out on this game-changing conversation! Tune in to the Tom Randall Podcast and join Tom and Allegra as they guide you on a journey towards unlocking your full potential and reaching new heights in your climbing performance.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.