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Lattice Training Podcast

V17 & The Olympics: Coaching World Class Climbers

Sep 16, 2023
Guests: Ollie Torr (coaching V17 climbers & Olympics), Will Bosi, Toby Roberts, Tommy Caldwell. Main topics: training weaknesses, Olympics preparation, game-changing exercises, coming back stronger from injury, coaching V17 climbers.
01:13:59

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Quick takeaways

  • For Olympic climbers, durability of performance, broad movement range, and strategic planning are critical factors for success.
  • Climbers should critically evaluate training methods and track individual responsiveness instead of blindly following popular trends.

Deep dives

Training for Olympic Performance

In this podcast episode, the hosts discuss the differences in training preparation for elite climbers aiming for the Olympics versus outdoor climbing on high-grade routes. They emphasize three main factors that are critical for Olympic performance: durability of performance, broad movement range, and strategic planning. The new Olympic format requires athletes to perform consistently across multiple events, necessitating a focus on maintaining high power output and endurance throughout. The importance of training a broad range of movement patterns is highlighted, as athletes must adapt to different challenges in competition settings. Furthermore, strategic planning is crucial, as athletes need to strategize which events to prioritize and train accordingly. The hosts also touch on the importance of managing injuries and making conscious decisions about training weaknesses based on individual circumstances.

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