Guests: Ollie Torr (coaching V17 climbers & Olympics), Will Bosi, Toby Roberts, Tommy Caldwell. Main topics: training weaknesses, Olympics preparation, game-changing exercises, coming back stronger from injury, coaching V17 climbers.
For Olympic climbers, durability of performance, broad movement range, and strategic planning are critical factors for success.
Climbers should critically evaluate training methods and track individual responsiveness instead of blindly following popular trends.
Managing injuries requires clear communication, accountability, proactive decision-making, and incorporating mental and psychological aspects in the rehab process.
Deep dives
Training for Olympic Performance
In this podcast episode, the hosts discuss the differences in training preparation for elite climbers aiming for the Olympics versus outdoor climbing on high-grade routes. They emphasize three main factors that are critical for Olympic performance: durability of performance, broad movement range, and strategic planning. The new Olympic format requires athletes to perform consistently across multiple events, necessitating a focus on maintaining high power output and endurance throughout. The importance of training a broad range of movement patterns is highlighted, as athletes must adapt to different challenges in competition settings. Furthermore, strategic planning is crucial, as athletes need to strategize which events to prioritize and train accordingly. The hosts also touch on the importance of managing injuries and making conscious decisions about training weaknesses based on individual circumstances.
Critical Evaluation of Training Methods
One key point discussed in the podcast is the need for climbers to critically evaluate training methods and not adopt them blindly based on popular trends or beliefs. The hosts stress the importance of tracking and analyzing the impact of different training stimuli on individual performance. They caution against overrating untested or unproven training methodologies and highlight the significance of individual responsiveness to specific training approaches. It is advised to monitor progress over time and make informed decisions based on personal results rather than blindly following others. The hosts emphasize the value of being accountable and making conscious choices, while also acknowledging the role of expectation and belief in an athlete's performance outcomes.
Managing Injuries and Rehabilitation
The podcast also explores the challenges of managing injuries and rehabilitating elite athletes. The hosts stress the importance of clear communication and accountability, both between coach and athlete and within oneself. They emphasize the need for athletes to be proactive in managing their injuries by accepting the risks associated with continuing to train or pushing through with compromised performance. The hosts also underscore the significance of mental and psychological aspects in injury management, encouraging athletes to focus on solutions rather than dwelling on setbacks. Additionally, they highlight the role of strategic rehab plans and seeking expert advice when needed.
Divergence of Climbers
As climbers build careers and dedicate more time to training, the differences among the best climbers in the world are becoming more pronounced. The evolution of athletes and the need for route setters to create challenges that match their skills are contributing to this divergence. While the rock remains the same, route setting continues to change according to the evolving demands and styles of the sport.
The Role of Replicas in Climbing
Replica training, particularly for outdoor climbing, offers numerous benefits such as saving time, mental energy, and skin. It allows climbers to practice on specific movements and build familiarity with different holds and climbing styles. Replicas can be especially valuable for athletes who struggle with skin issues or have limited opportunities to try certain climbs. For some climbers, replicas provide a measurable and structured approach that aligns with their performance psychology, making training more enjoyable and effective.
Welcome back to the Lattice Training podcast! Today, we have Ollie Torr joining our host Tom Randall, for an insight into coaching V17 climbers, preparing for the Olympics and much more 😏
From coaching, Will Bosi and Toby Roberts, Tom and Ollie also have coached Tommy Caldwell and are coaching Alex Honnold for his next projects. So what is required from a coach to be able to help these high-end climbers? And how do you make the most of training when injured in order to keep at the top of your game?
Well, brew some tea and have a sit because these questions and many more will be answered in today's podcast 😉
Main topics:
- When does training 'weaknesses' stop being useful? - How do climbers prepare for the Olympics? - Game-changing exercises for climbing - Most overrated climbing exercises - How to make the most out of an injury and come back stronger? - Coaching V17 climber? -Replica training being at the cutting edge of climbing
Are you psyched to hear all about coaching some of the best climbers in the world? Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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