Pete Whittaker, a professional climber, joins the podcast to discuss his latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale. They dive into Pete's assessment techniques before training and his training structure. They also talk about what Pete has learned from climbers with different strengths and how he stays motivated. The podcast explores the challenges of Crown Royale, the benefits of shoulder training, managing injuries in climbing, and the value of adapting styles and replica training.
Replica training is a valuable technique in preparing for challenging climbs, allowing climbers to replicate specific routes and build necessary skills.
Understanding one's climbing style and focusing on strengths while also addressing weaknesses is important for overall performance improvement.
Deep dives
Pete Whittaker's Journey on the Profile Wall in Norway
Pete Whittaker recounts his experience climbing the Profile Wall in Norway, a challenging route that offers a blend of crack climbing and face climbing. He first visited the wall in 2016 and was immediately drawn to its potential for new routes. Over the years, he repeated and established several routes on the wall, leading up to his current project, the hardest line on the wall. The route spans three pitches and combines hard crack climbing with a touch of face climbing. Pete recently completed the route, making it one of the hardest climbs in his career.
The Importance and Benefits of Replica Training for Climbing
Pete and his training partner Tom Randall discuss the significance of replica training in their climbing journeys. They highlight the usefulness of replicating specific routes or movements to prepare for challenging projects. Replica training allows climbers to become familiar with the movements, strengths, weaknesses, and endurance required for a specific route. It also helps climbers build muscle memory and develop the necessary skills to tackle difficult sections. Pete and Tom emphasize the importance of striking a balance with replica training, avoiding excessive training durations and ensuring a positive and enjoyable experience on the replica to maintain motivation and prevent injuries.
Insights on Climbing Style and Strength Training
Pete shares his observations from climbing with other climbers such as Magnus Midtbo and Emile Abrahamson. He notes the differences in their climbing styles and how their approach to climbing influences their strengths and weaknesses. Pete acknowledges the importance of understanding one's own climbing style and focusing on strengths while also working on weaknesses to improve overall performance. He also highlights the benefits of training various grip types, such as full crimps and chisel crimps, to enhance climbing abilities and adapt to different types of holds and movements.
Lessons Learned from Training Cycles and Quality of Training
Pete reflects on his recent training cycle and identifies valuable lessons. He emphasizes the importance of quality training sessions, which may involve shorter durations but produce better results. Pete recognizes the need to balance training intensity, rest, and recovery to optimize performance and avoid burnout or injury. He also mentions the benefits of focusing on specific training areas, such as fingers strength, and shifting away from excessive capacity training. Pete's recent training experience has led him to prioritize focused and quality sessions to achieve better outcomes.
Tom and Pete discuss all the training behind this monstrous climb. Plus, they dive in into some of Pete’s assessment techniques before training, with Pete even spilling some key tips that helped him adapt his training for his project.
Key topics include:
How Pete self assesses before training
His training structure and how it has evolved
Replica Training
What he has learned from climbers with different strengths (i.e Magnus)
How he stays motivated
What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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