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Lattice Training Podcast

Latest episodes

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Mar 2, 2024 • 1h 20min

How A Competition Climber Became the FIRST Brit to Free 'The Nose'

Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach  Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+). This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it’s time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Alex set their sights on it.Billy shares how his long-held dream of climbing big walls led him to El Cap, where he and his partner Alex Waterhouse etched their names in history as the first Brits to free climb The Nose. From weathering storms in a leaky portaledge 1,500 feet above the ground to making the most of daylight with early starts, Billy recounts their journey.Topics Include:What inspired Billy and Alex to take on The Nose's challengeHow they got stuck in the two main crux’s of the routeTheir plan if one of them couldn't climb a specific pitchHow they used innovative thinking to overcome various weather conditionsThe highs and lows of portaledge lifeMaintaining high morale under time pressureAnd much more!Tune in for this captivating episode and hear firsthand the amazing story of determination, friendship, and triumph on The Nose.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Feb 17, 2024 • 1h 16min

Pro athlete, Emily Harrington, on climbing, pregnancy and motherhood

Professional climber Emily Harrington shares her journey into motherhood while maintaining her adventurous career, including climbing Mount Everest and El Cap. She discusses her experiences during pregnancy, postpartum challenges, and balancing motherhood with training and sponsorship commitments. Topics include decision-making process, adapting climbing goals post-motherhood, and managing risk as a parent.
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Feb 3, 2024 • 1h 26min

Climbing Injuries with the GB Olympic Physio

Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy’, a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey’s physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face.Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares his insights of common injuries, both indoor and outdoor, drawing from his wealth of experience.Ever wondered about Shauna Coxsey's physio secrets? Paul spills the beans on lessons learned, from elite climbing to influencing the culture of "training for climbing." Get ready for practical training advice straight from a climbing injury expert.Topics include:Most misdiagnosed injuries in climbing?Unhelpful physio advice climbers should look out for? Other than finger injuries, what are the most common injuries climber’s face?Lessons learned from being a physio to GB climbing star Shauna Coxey? What do climbers keep getting wrong in the 'training for climbing' culture?Training advice, from top physio, which climbers everywhere can benefit from?Ready to boost your knowledge of climbing injuries? Don't miss out on expert insights to enhance your climbing journey.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Jan 20, 2024 • 1h 11min

Eyes set on America's First V17 & Frustration on Excalibur 9b+ with Will Bosi

In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi, delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA. Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur, Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi’s beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland. The podcast covers a range of topics, including:How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performanceNavigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against youDefining success in the face of a non-sending tripWill Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USAThe importance of resting and effective skincare in climbingSimon Lorenzi’s insane beta on Burden of DreamsHow a climber’s strengths influence their projecting strategiesAnd much more!If you’re looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi’s projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Jan 6, 2024 • 1h 10min

Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts

In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting.Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit.Other topics include:Unlocking the power of knowing your project's finishHarnessing video beta to its maximum potential for accelerated learningStrategising for non-sending sessionsManaging the mental demands of longer-term climbing projectsDiscover the crucial role of a supportive climbing partner in your successAnd much more!So if you want to know more on how to improve your projecting session, head over to our podcast.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Dec 23, 2023 • 54min

First Female Ascent of Black Mamba (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Mary Eden

In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall. She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah.This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz, but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this gnarly route.They talk through  Mary’s approach to climbing and training, highlighting how she has never thought of herself as a ‘talented’ or ‘natural’ climber. They delve into the lifestyle challenges that accompany training and climbing when pushing higher grades.Key topics covered include:Mary's climbing journey and her limited knowledge of training methods in the early yearsHow she embraces the concept of learning through failure and the impact this has had on her climbingHow her approach to climbing and training differed as she progressed to 5.12a/f7aWhat training strategies did she adopt that propelled her into the 5.13a/f7c+ gradesSharing top tips she has learnt over five years of focusing on pushing her climbing performanceWant to hear more from Mary Eden and Tom Randall? Head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Dec 9, 2023 • 59min

Stranger than Fiction (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Lor Sabourin

Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘Cousin of Death’ (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘East Coast Fist Bump’ (5.14a/8b+).This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “Stranger Than Fiction” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 2015.Lor’s projecting process fascinated and continues to impress us here at Lattice, as they have a unique approach to dealing with the physical, mental and technical aspects of projecting complex routes over a long time period. Whilst Lattice has worked with many athletes over the years who’ve had season-long projects, it’s always remarkable to see someone achieve their multi-year project!Key topics:Lor finding and sampling ‘Stranger than Fiction’Mental tools for dealing with the uncertainty of technical trad routes The type of training they did with their Lattice coach Maddy CopeUsing gratitude as a tool when long-term projectingJuggling work with the climbing lifestyleTools they used to progress every season on ‘Stranger than Fiction’How their training led to a leap in their bouldering gradeWant to learn more about how a Performance Coaching Plan can help you achieve your goals? Head over to the Lattice Training website to find out more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Nov 18, 2023 • 1h 33min

What is in Alex Honnold’s Training Plan?

Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with.They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold, Toby Roberts, and even Emily Harrington’s coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast!The main topics are:Are Pros all-rounders?Choosing prioritiesIs it better to climb or train more?Is it better to work finger strength on the wall or on a fingerboard?What type of endurance works best?With lots of examples based on the notable climbers we work with.What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Oct 28, 2023 • 1h 1min

Training The Worlds Strongest Man With Tom Randall & Dan Hipkiss

Dan Hipkiss, coach to 'The Stoltman Brothers', discusses frequency and volume of strength training, training weaknesses, injury prevention, and using deload cycles to get stronger. They also explore how sports like powerlifting, CrossFit, and Olympic weightlifting can influence climbing training. Find out more about these topics and how they can benefit your climbing on this episode.
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Oct 14, 2023 • 54min

Pete Whittaker on Trad 9a: Crown Royale

Pete Whittaker, a professional climber, joins the podcast to discuss his latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale. They dive into Pete's assessment techniques before training and his training structure. They also talk about what Pete has learned from climbers with different strengths and how he stays motivated. The podcast explores the challenges of Crown Royale, the benefits of shoulder training, managing injuries in climbing, and the value of adapting styles and replica training.

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