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Lattice Training Podcast

Latest episodes

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Apr 20, 2024 • 8min

Highlight: Why is Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A so hard?

May seem like an obvious question, but in this podcast highlight, Nate Williams shares his experience with projecting Return of the Sleepwalker, a V17/9A boulder problem, and the challenges he faces with friction control and conditions. Nate also talks about his projecting and beta sharing with Will Bosi, and how they optimise weather and friction conditions for best attempts.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Apr 13, 2024 • 1h 26min

How the Mind Hacks Your Training Session

Coach Josh Hadley chats with Cam Hartley about training myths, psychobiology in endurance performance, and the importance of consistency in climbing training. They explore myths, aerobic thresholds, and mental fatigue impact on performance, making it a must-listen for climbers seeking to improve endurance and debunk training misconceptions.
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Apr 5, 2024 • 5min

Highlight: Have you heard about "crimp finger"?

People regularly get confused between a pulley strain and an irritation of the tendon, which Huffy has called 'crimp finger'. In this podcast highlight it explains the differences between the two to enable you to diagnose the correct injury so that you can seek the correct treatment. This podcast highlight is a snippet of our podcast with GB climbing physio,  which covers various topics related to climbing injuries and rehabilitation.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Mar 30, 2024 • 30min

The Hard Truths of Return Of The Sleepwalker

In this week’s podcast, join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley, as he is joined by pro climber, Nate Williams, who has been projecting ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ (V17/9A) in Las Vegas, USA, which recently saw its second ascent, by Will Bosi in February 2024. Nate’s been working on this well-known climb for over 2 seasons, since sending the stand-start version ‘Sleepwalker’ (V16/8C+) back in December 2020. In this episode, we delve into Nate's climbing journey, understanding the intricacies of this famous V17/9A boulder problem and how this recent ascent changes what he will do next.Nate discusses his past, growing up and being mentored by Jimmy Webb, his conversations with Daniel Woods discussing a new boulder that later became Sleepwalker, and how he went from competing nationally to being a fully outdoors climber. Josh delves into his remarkable journey and learns what it takes to project at your limit and unlock new potential.Other topics include:Who is Nathan Williams?How Jimmy Webb influenced Nate’s style of climbingThe commitment to the process of projecting and how what to think about when choosing a boulder at your limitDifferences between the stand (Sleepwalker, V16/8C+) and the sit (Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A)How to  build friction and how holds differ in their textureSupporting Will Bosi with his recent ascent and differences in their approachWhat is next for Nate after ROTS?And much more!Tune in for this captivating episode as we discuss the ripple effect of Will Bosi's recent ascent of "Return of the Sleepwalker" and its implications for Nate's own journey. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Mar 16, 2024 • 58min

Adam Ondra Repeats The World’s Hardest Trad Route

Listen to a captivating conversation about James Pearson's groundbreaking trad climb 'Bon Voyage' (E12) and the controversy surrounding climbing grading. Explore Adam Ondra's diverse climbing experiences, maximizing efficiency in climbing, resilience, risk-taking, and reflections on legacy and growth in climbing.
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Mar 2, 2024 • 1h 20min

How A Competition Climber Became the FIRST Brit to Free 'The Nose'

Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach  Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+). This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it’s time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Alex set their sights on it.Billy shares how his long-held dream of climbing big walls led him to El Cap, where he and his partner Alex Waterhouse etched their names in history as the first Brits to free climb The Nose. From weathering storms in a leaky portaledge 1,500 feet above the ground to making the most of daylight with early starts, Billy recounts their journey.Topics Include:What inspired Billy and Alex to take on The Nose's challengeHow they got stuck in the two main crux’s of the routeTheir plan if one of them couldn't climb a specific pitchHow they used innovative thinking to overcome various weather conditionsThe highs and lows of portaledge lifeMaintaining high morale under time pressureAnd much more!Tune in for this captivating episode and hear firsthand the amazing story of determination, friendship, and triumph on The Nose.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Feb 17, 2024 • 1h 16min

Pro athlete, Emily Harrington, on climbing, pregnancy and motherhood

Professional climber Emily Harrington shares her journey into motherhood while maintaining her adventurous career, including climbing Mount Everest and El Cap. She discusses her experiences during pregnancy, postpartum challenges, and balancing motherhood with training and sponsorship commitments. Topics include decision-making process, adapting climbing goals post-motherhood, and managing risk as a parent.
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Feb 3, 2024 • 1h 26min

Climbing Injuries with the GB Olympic Physio

Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy’, a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey’s physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face.Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares his insights of common injuries, both indoor and outdoor, drawing from his wealth of experience.Ever wondered about Shauna Coxsey's physio secrets? Paul spills the beans on lessons learned, from elite climbing to influencing the culture of "training for climbing." Get ready for practical training advice straight from a climbing injury expert.Topics include:Most misdiagnosed injuries in climbing?Unhelpful physio advice climbers should look out for? Other than finger injuries, what are the most common injuries climber’s face?Lessons learned from being a physio to GB climbing star Shauna Coxey? What do climbers keep getting wrong in the 'training for climbing' culture?Training advice, from top physio, which climbers everywhere can benefit from?Ready to boost your knowledge of climbing injuries? Don't miss out on expert insights to enhance your climbing journey.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Jan 20, 2024 • 1h 11min

Eyes set on America's First V17 & Frustration on Excalibur 9b+ with Will Bosi

In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi, delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA. Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur, Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi’s beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland. The podcast covers a range of topics, including:How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performanceNavigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against youDefining success in the face of a non-sending tripWill Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USAThe importance of resting and effective skincare in climbingSimon Lorenzi’s insane beta on Burden of DreamsHow a climber’s strengths influence their projecting strategiesAnd much more!If you’re looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi’s projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Jan 6, 2024 • 1h 10min

Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts

In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting.Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit.Other topics include:Unlocking the power of knowing your project's finishHarnessing video beta to its maximum potential for accelerated learningStrategising for non-sending sessionsManaging the mental demands of longer-term climbing projectsDiscover the crucial role of a supportive climbing partner in your successAnd much more!So if you want to know more on how to improve your projecting session, head over to our podcast.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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