

Lattice Training Podcast
Lattice Training
We. Train. Climbers. At Lattice, we aim to develop and grow our understanding of effective training for climbing, a sport that is still very much in its infancy. We hope to educate and share psych about our amazing sport! Ultimately enabling everyone to excel in climbing and enjoy the sport throughout all of life's stages.
Episodes
Mentioned books

May 11, 2024 • 1h 2min
Training in your 60s: Jill Whittaker talks about her best year of climbing yet!
In this episode, join host Tom Randall as he sits down with Jill Whitaker, she is a 61-year-old climber and mother of two accomplished pro climbers (Pete and Katy Whitaker). She is a testament to the power of perseverance and dedication!We will explore Jill's remarkable journey into climbing post-60 and her unique perspectives on training and climbing.Main topics:Jill's climbing background: From her early years in trad climbing to her rediscovery of the sport and return to climbing.Starting training and setting goals: How she juggled supporting her children’s climbing alongside her own training after a long break from the sport.Jill's training program: Insights into her training program, focusing on multiple areas including; pulling strength, finger strength, and maintaining power endurance and flexibility.Experiences with testing climbing performance: Jill's experiences with testing, and the positive feedback she received from friends.Climbing trip to Leonidio, Greece: Highlights from her recent climbing trip, where she achieved personal bests on some challenging routes.Reflections and Advice: Jill reflects on her climbing journey and the impact of structured training on her performance. Plus, advice for climbers of all ages seeking to improve..Throughout the conversation, Jill's journey serves as a testament to the power of a positive attitude, perseverance, and the importance of having a structured training program.Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.Tune in to gain valuable insights and inspiration from Jill Whitaker's incredible and wholesome attitude towards the sport and life.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

May 4, 2024 • 8min
Highlight: Will Bosi climbing sport 9c or Adam Ondra bouldering 9A first?
In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon.Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

10 snips
Apr 27, 2024 • 1h 27min
The Inconvenient Truth About Getting Good at Climbing
Dr Simon Fryer, Sport & Exercise Physiology Senior Lecturer, discusses health benefits of climbing, challenges in climbing performance analysis, optimizing training through peripheral muscular adaptations, testing performance in climbing, and lower limb training for climbing performance.

Apr 20, 2024 • 8min
Highlight: Why is Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A so hard?
May seem like an obvious question, but in this podcast highlight, Nate Williams shares his experience with projecting Return of the Sleepwalker, a V17/9A boulder problem, and the challenges he faces with friction control and conditions. Nate also talks about his projecting and beta sharing with Will Bosi, and how they optimise weather and friction conditions for best attempts.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Apr 13, 2024 • 1h 26min
How the Mind Hacks Your Training Session
Coach Josh Hadley chats with Cam Hartley about training myths, psychobiology in endurance performance, and the importance of consistency in climbing training. They explore myths, aerobic thresholds, and mental fatigue impact on performance, making it a must-listen for climbers seeking to improve endurance and debunk training misconceptions.

Apr 5, 2024 • 5min
Highlight: Have you heard about "crimp finger"?
People regularly get confused between a pulley strain and an irritation of the tendon, which Huffy has called 'crimp finger'. In this podcast highlight it explains the differences between the two to enable you to diagnose the correct injury so that you can seek the correct treatment. This podcast highlight is a snippet of our podcast with GB climbing physio, which covers various topics related to climbing injuries and rehabilitation.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Mar 30, 2024 • 30min
The Hard Truths of Return Of The Sleepwalker
In this week’s podcast, join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley, as he is joined by pro climber, Nate Williams, who has been projecting ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ (V17/9A) in Las Vegas, USA, which recently saw its second ascent, by Will Bosi in February 2024. Nate’s been working on this well-known climb for over 2 seasons, since sending the stand-start version ‘Sleepwalker’ (V16/8C+) back in December 2020. In this episode, we delve into Nate's climbing journey, understanding the intricacies of this famous V17/9A boulder problem and how this recent ascent changes what he will do next.Nate discusses his past, growing up and being mentored by Jimmy Webb, his conversations with Daniel Woods discussing a new boulder that later became Sleepwalker, and how he went from competing nationally to being a fully outdoors climber. Josh delves into his remarkable journey and learns what it takes to project at your limit and unlock new potential.Other topics include:Who is Nathan Williams?How Jimmy Webb influenced Nate’s style of climbingThe commitment to the process of projecting and how what to think about when choosing a boulder at your limitDifferences between the stand (Sleepwalker, V16/8C+) and the sit (Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A)How to build friction and how holds differ in their textureSupporting Will Bosi with his recent ascent and differences in their approachWhat is next for Nate after ROTS?And much more!Tune in for this captivating episode as we discuss the ripple effect of Will Bosi's recent ascent of "Return of the Sleepwalker" and its implications for Nate's own journey. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Mar 16, 2024 • 58min
Adam Ondra Repeats The World’s Hardest Trad Route
Listen to a captivating conversation about James Pearson's groundbreaking trad climb 'Bon Voyage' (E12) and the controversy surrounding climbing grading. Explore Adam Ondra's diverse climbing experiences, maximizing efficiency in climbing, resilience, risk-taking, and reflections on legacy and growth in climbing.

Mar 2, 2024 • 1h 20min
How A Competition Climber Became the FIRST Brit to Free 'The Nose'
Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+). This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it’s time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Alex set their sights on it.Billy shares how his long-held dream of climbing big walls led him to El Cap, where he and his partner Alex Waterhouse etched their names in history as the first Brits to free climb The Nose. From weathering storms in a leaky portaledge 1,500 feet above the ground to making the most of daylight with early starts, Billy recounts their journey.Topics Include:What inspired Billy and Alex to take on The Nose's challengeHow they got stuck in the two main crux’s of the routeTheir plan if one of them couldn't climb a specific pitchHow they used innovative thinking to overcome various weather conditionsThe highs and lows of portaledge lifeMaintaining high morale under time pressureAnd much more!Tune in for this captivating episode and hear firsthand the amazing story of determination, friendship, and triumph on The Nose.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Feb 17, 2024 • 1h 16min
Pro athlete, Emily Harrington, on climbing, pregnancy and motherhood
Professional climber Emily Harrington shares her journey into motherhood while maintaining her adventurous career, including climbing Mount Everest and El Cap. She discusses her experiences during pregnancy, postpartum challenges, and balancing motherhood with training and sponsorship commitments. Topics include decision-making process, adapting climbing goals post-motherhood, and managing risk as a parent.