Coach Josh Hadley chats with Cam Hartley about training myths, psychobiology in endurance performance, and the importance of consistency in climbing training. They explore myths, aerobic thresholds, and mental fatigue impact on performance, making it a must-listen for climbers seeking to improve endurance and debunk training misconceptions.
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Quick takeaways
Understanding different energy systems is crucial for climbing training, focusing on aerobic threshold, anaerobic threshold, and anaerobic capacity training zones.
Periodization in climbing involves strategically cycling through different intensities and energy systems to optimize performance throughout the year.
Critical force testing assesses anaerobic and aerobic capacities in climbers, tracking progress and improvements in energy system thresholds.
Varying training zones from aerobic threshold to anaerobic capacity ensures a comprehensive approach to developing different energy systems for climbing efficiency and progress.
Consistency in training and enhancing shoulder strength are crucial for long-term progress and climbing performance, supporting finger strength and overall abilities.
Deep dives
Understanding Energy Systems in Climbing
In climbing training, understanding the different energy systems is crucial. Starting with aerobic threshold training, where you focus on using primarily fat as a fuel source, maintaining conversation intensity helps build the aerobic engine system efficiently. Transitioning to anaerobic threshold training, also known as zone four, emphasizes pushing intensity to maximize type two muscle fiber usage. This training is beneficial for the transition from using fat to glucose as an energy source, preparing for faster, more intense climbing. Finally, targeting anaerobic capacity training in zone six or seven focuses on developing short bursts of power in the ATP-PC system for swift, powerful climbing moves.
Spinning Plates of Training
Training in different zones can be likened to spinning plates, where each zone represents a different energy system to work on. Just as you would spin multiple plates before they slow down, training involves focusing on different aspects to achieve a well-rounded performance. For top-tier athletes, maintaining these energy systems at a high level requires more attention and effort, much like continuously spinning more plates to keep up performance standards.
Periodization for Climbing Performance
Periodization in climbing involves lining up various training zones and sessions throughout the year to optimize performance. By strategically cycling through different intensities and focusing on specific energy systems like aerobic threshold, anaerobic capacity, and anaerobic power, climbers can maintain a well-balanced training routine. Consistently shifting focus between plate spinning tasks ensures that each element remains sharp for peak climbing performance.
Testing and Tracking Progress
Critical force testing can be utilized to assess energy systems and thresholds like anaerobic and aerobic capacities. These tests provide insights into where the athlete stands in terms of sustainable energy output. Continuous monitoring and testing help track improvements in anaerobic and aerobic thresholds, giving a clear picture of progress in climbing performance.
Importance of Varying Training Zones
Varying training zones in climbing, from aerobic threshold to anaerobic capacity and beyond, ensures a comprehensive approach to developing different energy systems. While focusing on specific zones like anaerobic power can enhance short bursts of energy, it's crucial to maintain a balance across multiple zones to improve overall climbing performance. Integrating diverse training zones allows climbers to adapt to varied demands during climbs, promoting efficiency and progress.
Practical Application of Training Zones
Implementing a structured approach to training zones involves cycling through aerobic threshold, anaerobic capacity, and other key zones to cover a wide range of energy systems. By incorporating different zones into training sessions and periodizing workouts throughout the year, climbers can build a solid foundation in energy system development. This structured approach helps climbers target specific adaptations and avoid plateauing in performance.
Enhancing Climbing Performance through Zone Training
By honing in on specific training zones like aerobic threshold and anaerobic capacity, climbers can enhance their endurance and power outputs for improved performance on challenging routes. Incorporating a mix of zones and adjusting training focus based on individual goals and progress ensures a well-rounded approach to climbing training. Developing different energy systems through zone training sets the stage for sustained progress and peak climbing achievements.
Training for Climbing Efficiency
The podcast episode discusses the importance of training for climbing efficiency by focusing on sustaining an aerobic threshold and understanding energy sources used during physical activities. While techniques like gas exchange ratio calculations are common in sports like cycling, applying similar methods to climbing's smaller muscle groups poses challenges. The podcast emphasizes the need for further research to define the aerobic threshold in climbing more effectively, aiming to enhance climbers' aerobic energy systems and overall performance.
Consistency and Shoulder Strength Training
Another key point highlighted in the podcast is the significance of consistency in training and the importance of shoulder strength for climbing performance. Consistent training, even with subtle variations in variables like reps and tempo, is crucial for long-term progress. Additionally, focusing on enhancing shoulder strength is deemed essential to support finger strength, especially for movements requiring scapular engagement and effective retraction to optimize climbing abilities and reduce reliance solely on finger strength.
In today’s Lattice Training podcast, coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cam Hartley to discuss three key areas;
Training myths and misconceptions
Psychobiology and endurance performance
Importance of consistency in training for climbing
just one of the strongest members of the Lattice Training coaching team, but also has a BSc in Sports Science and wrote his research paper on the strength differences between the strongest and weakest hand. Since then he has begun a PhD on the impact of mental fatigue on health and performance in rock climbing athletes.
As Cam is a specialist in psychobiology and its relationship to performance, Josh and Cam start to explore the psychobiological model of endurance performance and its implications for training and performance. They also delve into the aerobic and anaerobic thresholds and the importance of training in specific zones to optimise endurance. So if you are psyched about training your endurance and improving performance, this is a great episode for you!
So whether you want to understand how to improve your endurance training, or just looking to debunk some climbing training myths, tune in to today’s show.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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