The Testpiece Podcast

Entitlement is the opposite of flow and perhaps the most damaging frame to have over the long term in your climbing. This can come from training, previous sends, or comp placement.Hear stories about Daniel Woods and other pro-climbers who have avoided this frame. And hear from Tim Kang and Josh Horsley about how they coach others and themselves to guard against it.SHOW NOTES:NEW!! Testpiece Pocket T-ShirtSUAV ShoesRhino Skin SolutionsJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!!This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafora). This episode was recorded the day after Josh and Tim did a YouTube video with Tension, “Comparing the Boards: Testpiece Comes to Tension”. You need to watch that video ASAP!! Tension and Testpiece also collaborated on a special giveaway. You can win a Testpiece T-Shirt and a Tension training tool of your choice by winning. BONUS — the Tension training tool will have the Testpiece logo on it as well! All you have to do is climb an amazing climbs on the TB2 and post them to Instagram, tagging @tensionclimbing and @testpiececlimbing. The climbs are: “Testpiece Mirror” @ 45 (both mirrored versions), on the mirrored layout of the 12x12 wall. “Testpiece Spray” @ 45 on the spray wall layout of the 12x12 wall.Or ANY of your favorite Classics on and TB2 layout. You must post in your comments why it’s your favorite to enter the raffle.Uncut footy only 😇SHOW NOTES:Tension and Testpiece YouTube VideoUndeniable Vibes Tension Shoe SprayEGODEATH Video Tension Board 2Mimic holdsBubble Wrap Project at CATS Josh’s Board Account (@thebarnboard)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first! Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now representing the athletes themselves. Dave shares with us the REAL side of what it takes to be a pro, what pro’s actually earn, and the tips on how to become a professional climber.  He has also been involved in producing famous films like Alphane, Defying Gravity, and Tropical Lines. He’s been involved with too many to list, so we just picked some recent ones! If it has to do with TNF and Mellow, it’s a good guess that Dave had a hand in it. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

 Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message.  Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path.  They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moonboard 2024 set by Tim.  SHOW NOTES: Janja on Bügeleisen sit (8C/V15)Retro Modern with Tim Kang Tropical Lines Patreon for Classrooms Steve Radar Moonboard Account Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different disciplines in climbing and what it means to be a long time professional in the climbing world. SHOW NOTES:Nina Williams InstagramBad Kitty PodcastToo Big To Flail, V10Splash of Red, V10Ray of Light, V13Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.SHOW NOTES:Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding PresentJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.SHOW NOTES:Multiverse FA by Jimmy WebbThe Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel DavisonJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.SHOW NOTES:Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam OndraMichaela KierschHuecoEra VellaTick ListAidan Robert’s On New V17’s?No Edge ShoesJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Palmer Larsen, a top coach, discusses fostering success through deliberate practice, coaching challenges, and predicting climbers for the Paris 2024 Olympics. Emphasizes effort over outcomes, autonomy in coaching, and the value of consistent practice. Touches on Timoa's performance, the scoring system in climbing, and selecting the right equipment for improved performance.

 What is the best way to approach a climb?  It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time.  Announcement!!$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now!  SHOW NOTES: Devilution by Shawn RaboutouElias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)Dana White on Lex FridmanJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE