#115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome?
Sep 9, 2024
auto_awesome
Garrett Gregor, head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders and accomplished climber, shares insights from behind the scenes of competitive climbing. He discusses the grades of Olympic climbs and the collaborative dynamic between setters and athletes. The implications of route setting on competition outcomes are explored, including how subtle changes can shift performance. He emphasizes the evolution of tech and techniques in climbing, the subjective nature of grades, and the pressures elite athletes face, making for an engaging dive into the climbing world.
Garrett Gregor highlights that route setters play a crucial role in competitions but do not solely control the outcomes, emphasizing unpredictability in sports.
His journey in climbing, from a struggling youth to Olympic head routesetter, showcases the multifaceted paths athletes can take in the sport.
The evolution of route setting certifications signifies a growing professionalism and recognition of setters as vital contributors to climbing competitions.
Competition climbing has transformed with new athlete talents and media access, shifting the focus towards diverse skills and adaptability in training techniques.
Deep dives
Route Setting and Competition Dynamics
Route setters play a critical role in competition climbing, but they do not solely determine the outcome of events. There's an inherent element of chance in the sport that is unavoidable, meaning that even with precise route setting, outcomes can vary significantly based on athlete performance and conditions on the day. The relationship between route setters and climbers is symbiotic; both parties are invested in creating a successful competition environment. This dynamic is essential in ensuring that athletes can showcase their skills, emphasizing the collaborative nature of the sport.
The Journey of a Climber
Garrett Greger's journey into climbing began in childhood and developed through various paths, from competitive climbing to coaching and route setting. He started climbing at a young age and quickly became hooked despite initial struggles, underscoring the appeal of the sport. Over the years, he honed his skills and became a noted route setter, contributing to both national and international competitions, including the Olympics. This diverse experience allows him to understand the sport from multiple perspectives, enriching his insight into route setting and athlete performance.
The Evolution of Route Setting Certifications
Route setting certifications have progressed significantly, with a structured hierarchy that includes various levels of training and qualification. Initial clinics provided basic skills, while higher levels require more experience and expertise in competition settings. This increased professionalism in route setting reflects the growth of the sport, as more setters are recognized as vital contributors to climbing competitions. The evolution of certification highlights the importance of ongoing development in skills relevant to both indoor and outdoor climbing environments.
The Modern Era of Competition Climbing
The landscape of competition climbing has shifted dramatically in recent years due to an explosion of new athlete talent and advanced training methodologies. Media access to competitions has grown, fostering a new generation's interest in the sport and examining climbers' various styles and techniques. Events now encompass diverse climbing disciplines, compelling athletes to adapt and refine their skills continuously. This evolution has not only influenced competition formats but also has broadened public perception of climbing as a versatile and dynamic sport.
Competition Advantages and Disadvantages
Some climbers excel in competitions while others shine on rock, leading to discussions about skill applicability across different formats. Athletes like Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret exemplify top-tier climbers who may not always align with traditional competition success metrics, as climbing also demands specialized techniques for unique environments. The pressure of competition can reveal true athletic potential, but not every exceptional rock climber will necessarily thrive in competition settings. Recognizing these nuances reinforces the complexity of defining 'the best' in climbing.
The Role of Unpredictability in Sports
Unpredictability is a defining aspect of sports, as it creates excitement and enhances the drama surrounding competitions. Factors such as performance anxiety, environmental conditions, and personal circumstances can profoundly affect an athlete's capability to perform on the day of an event. These elements highlight the challenge of assessing an athlete's prowess based solely on results, as many variables can shift the outcome. Embracing uncertainty allows athletes to capitalize on opportunities, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in climbing.
Climbing's Cultural Shift and Growth
The integration of climbing into mainstream sports, like its inclusion in the Olympics, has introduced new dynamics and interests within the climbing community. Climbers begin to focus less solely on outdoor rock climbing and more on the indoor competition landscape, leading to a potential shift in training priorities and techniques. The cultural evolution of climbing presents challenges and opportunities for athletes and setters alike, pushing boundaries and expanding the sport's reach. As climbing progresses, it becomes vital to remain adaptable and innovative in response to emerging trends.
Mindset: Control What You Can
A strong mindset is pivotal in achieving great success in climbing and helps athletes focus on what is within their control. The effort, practice, and discipline that climbers dedicate to honing their skills directly impact their potential for improvement and success. Athletes are encouraged to embrace their experiences, whether fruitful or challenging, to learn and adapt continually. Ultimately, believing in one's ability to grow and develop within the sport can lead to significant breakthroughs and accomplishments.
Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now.
Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as 4th at Nationals, an experienced coach at the legendary Team ABC, and did we mention he’s an elite routesetter?! IFSC Level 5, etc, etc etc…. Didn’t you already see that he was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympic boulders?!
In this banger episode Garrett shares all of the nuts and bolts of what it’s like behind the scenes of high level competition setting. He shares the grades of the boulders and routes at the Paris Olympics, and he tackles the classic question “Do Setters Control the Outcome of Competitions?”.
