The Testpiece Podcast #115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome?
Sep 9, 2024
Garrett Gregor, head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders and accomplished climber, shares insights from behind the scenes of competitive climbing. He discusses the grades of Olympic climbs and the collaborative dynamic between setters and athletes. The implications of route setting on competition outcomes are explored, including how subtle changes can shift performance. He emphasizes the evolution of tech and techniques in climbing, the subjective nature of grades, and the pressures elite athletes face, making for an engaging dive into the climbing world.
Chapters
Transcript
Episode notes
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Intro
00:00 • 2min
Climbing to New Heights
01:32 • 6min
Evolution of Climbing Tools and Techniques
07:51 • 2min
Evolution of Route Setting in Competitive Climbing
10:08 • 14min
The Art of Bouldering Route Setting
24:37 • 21min
Revolutionizing Basketball: The Impact of Height and Skill
46:05 • 2min
The Dynamics of Competitive Climbing
47:53 • 25min
Understanding the RIC Scale in Competitive Climbing
01:12:48 • 5min
The Art of Grading Boulders in Competitive Climbing
01:17:27 • 21min
Climbing Competition Dynamics
01:38:32 • 10min
Navigating Competitive Climbing
01:48:21 • 19min
The Evolution of Climbing: Certainty and Performance
02:07:24 • 15min
Empowering Change in the Climbing Community
02:22:15 • 3min
Reflections on Positive Impact and Community Engagement
02:24:55 • 2min