The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Apr 8, 2024 • 2h 9min
#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14! She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbsCampusing on the 4mm’sSolving a Rubik’s Cube while hangingJerry Moffat’s book MastermindKeenan Takahashi Testpiece PodcastFLOAT TrailerCircle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Apr 1, 2024 • 1h 48min
#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.SHOW NOTES:GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mar 25, 2024 • 2h 24min
#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World
That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mar 18, 2024 • 1h 40min
#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!
The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.SHOW NOTES:Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing ScarfaceJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mar 11, 2024 • 2h 30min
#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors
Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.The way to avoid, and deal with, injury.What the big differences are between training indoors and outdoors and what to learn from it.This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him!SHOW NOTES:Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Mar 4, 2024 • 1h 45min
#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj
Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES: Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard SendDaniel Woods on ROTSWWill Bosi does ROTSWJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Feb 26, 2024 • 1h 53min
#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]
Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a.SHOW NOTES:Matty Hong WebsiteMatty Hong on InstagramMatty Hong on TikTokBig Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)Reel Rock 18 TrailerBiographie 15a SendKing LinesTrailerSharma on Los Humildes Pa CasaEthan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone SpeedJim Thornburg InstagramJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Feb 19, 2024 • 1h 46min
#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session
Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.SHOW NOTES:2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 SetPodcast #33 with Andy TollefsonJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Feb 12, 2024 • 2h 14min
#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10
The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.SHOW NOTES:ANTIGRAVCreative Visualization [Book]A Little Life [Movie]Express Yourself [Song]Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb]KeenanJoshJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Feb 5, 2024 • 2h 3min
#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024
2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
