The Testpiece Podcast
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Latest episodes
Oct 16, 2023 • 2h 28min
#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]
First go best go!Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash.Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi.SHOW NOTES:Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the MoonboardShawn Raboutou Flashing SpectreSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Oct 9, 2023 • 2h 20min
#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence. The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to pursue climbing now that she is the one doing the inspiring. Then we get to hear the details on her send of Box Therapy, V16. Then Katie shares about how she went from Good to Great. SHOW NOTES:First Ascent: The Movie (Trailer)Will Fraker: Spotify and InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Oct 2, 2023 • 1h 54min
#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mike Heinstein]
Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber.Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from listeners:When and how-to session with the local strong crew.How to deal with all the training advice on social media that is sometimes contradictory.How to handle with “morpho” climbs, and what to do if you are on the shorter or taller end of the spectrum.SHOW NOTES:Becoming a Supple LeopardSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Sep 25, 2023 • 1h 18min
#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing for Life
When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long climber and now that he’s done with his previous business, Art.com, he has set his sights on the world of climbing by opening up the innovative Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley, CA. But the best thing about Mike is that he is genuinely here to help. He freely shares all of his insights about the climbing industry, how to open your own gym, how to run your own gym, and even his email (mike@mosaicboulders.com) in case you need more advice! This conversation was sparked from a recent trip to Europe where Mike had some epiphanies about where we might see the climbing gym industry head, and it was fascinating to say the least. Someone like Mike is rare — deep business knowledge, a true love of climbing, and a willingness to share with others. We are so grateful we got to sit down with him and share this conversation with you all!SHOW NOTES:Contact Mike: mike@mosaicboulders.comMosaic BouldersSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Sep 18, 2023 • 1h 53min
#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]
How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap?This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progressing in your climbing.Tim and Josh have different approaches because they have different lives. Tim is a pro-climber who has to travel often and struggles to have a set schedule. Josh works a lot and has a family which means his schedule is always short on free time. But the key behind progress is the same for them both — always showing up with intention to do the things that actually get you better each time and cutting out anything that gets in the way of those sessions.SHOW NOTES:Katie Lamb Climbs V16Dave MacLeod Rhapsody Endurance TrainingBecoming a Supple Leopard#28 -- Tim's Best DaySupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Sep 11, 2023 • 2h 16min
#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere.He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport.In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned.He also shares for the first time publicly why he isn’t competing in the upcoming Olympics, and his thoughts on whether or not competition is something he will pursue in the future. Topics include: Nationals vs WC’s vs Olympics, the current WC season, Twitch Streaming, the “Power of Psyche”, proper excitement levels when competing, his outdoor bucket list, and so so much more!NOTES / LINKS:KendamaNathaniel's TwitchGrand IllusionDefying GravityPower of PsycheDry Canyon Series (Lee Majors FA + $6mm Man Proj)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
12 snips
Sep 4, 2023 • 1h 54min
#62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Reflections [Eric Jerome]
Eric Jerome, Past Guest Reflections, joins Tim and Josh to discuss the current state of climbing training and how to get better at climbing. They explore the challenges and rewards of extended coaching, the benefits of training on walls with different angles, the evolution of climbing media, and the importance of unlocking new movements and prioritizing the mental game in climbing.
Aug 28, 2023 • 2h 19min
#61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA
Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA. But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to climb the best boulders?! First Eric had to answer the question “What makes one boulder better than another?”Join us on this journey as we dive deep into the origin of the “Star” system, and how to apply it. Then go to Eric’s website: Top100 to see the best boulders, and follow along on his YouTube while he travels the country trying to climb these boulders and better understand what makes a boulder good.NOTES:Max Zolotuhkin's ArticleEric's Top100 WebsiteEric's YouTubeThe Revenant Video (V15), 6 StarsPromised Land Video (V11/12)"Schelling Point"Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Aug 21, 2023 • 2h 5min
#60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]
Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning how to know where to look for efficiencies in the micro is hard. Tim and Josh try to demystify this process and show how to figure out where to eek out tiny bits of help in order to unlock that seemingly impossible crux move.Oh ya, and there’s lots of normal banter and general psyche that all of the episodes start out with. Enjoy!NOTES:Sam Richards climbing V15 at age 15Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Aug 14, 2023 • 2h 44min
#59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Love
An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper into training than most.Tune in to:Hear amazing stories from the legendary training center / “The Shop” at the Tension HQ. This is where the strongest in America get stronger, and has been visited by anyone that’s anyone while traveling through CO.Find out what Will has learned by training alongside the greats, and how he has integrated what makes them special into his own climbing.Know more about how a company like Tension has become so successful and what it takes to put out amazing products.And just so so so much more. Didn’t we already tell you that it was EPIC?!NOTES:Tension Climbing WebsiteTension Board 2 VideoJoshua Waitzin Podcast w/ Tim FerrissWill's Articles Mentioned:FoundationsHangboarding: A WayMESHUGGAH - BleedQuotes:“Find what you love and let it kill you.” — Charles Bukowski“Don’t seek to follow in the footsteps of great people. Seek what they sought.” — Zen Master BashoSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
