The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Jun 3, 2024 • 2h 31min
#101 Dave Burleson — How To Be A Pro Climber, What Pro’s Actually Earn, The Tension Between Passion And Professionalism, and Contract Negotiation 101
Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first! Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now representing the athletes themselves. Dave shares with us the REAL side of what it takes to be a pro, what pro’s actually earn, and the tips on how to become a professional climber. He has also been involved in producing famous films like Alphane, Defying Gravity, and Tropical Lines. He’s been involved with too many to list, so we just picked some recent ones! If it has to do with TNF and Mellow, it’s a good guess that Dave had a hand in it. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
May 27, 2024 • 2h 4min
#100 T&J — The Simple Path To Being Great, The Real Role Of Strength, Dealing With Tweaky Moves, Moonboard 2024, Amazing Media Drops, and Skin Farming
Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moonboard 2024 set by Tim. SHOW NOTES: Janja on Bügeleisen sit (8C/V15)Retro Modern with Tim Kang Tropical Lines Patreon for Classrooms Steve Radar Moonboard Account Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
May 20, 2024 • 1h 50min
#99 Nina Williams — Off Route While Free Soloing, The Ultimate Confidence, Being a Professional on Instagram, and The Medium Is The Message
Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different disciplines in climbing and what it means to be a long time professional in the climbing world. SHOW NOTES:Nina Williams InstagramBad Kitty PodcastToo Big To Flail, V10Splash of Red, V10Ray of Light, V13Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
May 13, 2024 • 1h 56min
#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake
Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.SHOW NOTES:Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding PresentJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
May 6, 2024 • 2h 13min
#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure
Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.SHOW NOTES:Multiverse FA by Jimmy WebbThe Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel DavisonJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Apr 29, 2024 • 1h 58min
#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.SHOW NOTES:Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam OndraMichaela KierschHuecoEra VellaTick ListAidan Robert’s On New V17’s?No Edge ShoesJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Apr 22, 2024 • 2h 12min
#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
Palmer Larsen, a top coach, discusses fostering success through deliberate practice, coaching challenges, and predicting climbers for the Paris 2024 Olympics. Emphasizes effort over outcomes, autonomy in coaching, and the value of consistent practice. Touches on Timoa's performance, the scoring system in climbing, and selecting the right equipment for improved performance.
Apr 15, 2024 • 1h 52min
#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!!$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now! SHOW NOTES: Devilution by Shawn RaboutouElias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)Dana White on Lex FridmanJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Apr 8, 2024 • 2h 9min
#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14! She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbsCampusing on the 4mm’sSolving a Rubik’s Cube while hangingJerry Moffat’s book MastermindKeenan Takahashi Testpiece PodcastFLOAT TrailerCircle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Apr 1, 2024 • 1h 48min
#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.SHOW NOTES:GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
