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The Testpiece Podcast

Latest episodes

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Aug 7, 2023 • 2h 11min

#58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]

Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom. (Join them next month by signing up on Patreon!)The podcast closes with a discussion about board climbing and why so many climbers gravitate towards them instead normal gym climbs. It’s a surprising part of the indoor scene and there’s lessons to be learned from the phenomenon.NOTESJakob Schubert’s epic Mallorca video that was brought up: https://youtu.be/YOCwtzqZXWUSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jul 31, 2023 • 1h 42min

#57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More

This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution!But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his FA’s, or climbed on a gym wall he’s designed, or grabbed a grip he shaped. Yes, he’s that prolific.Tune in and hear more from the absolute LEGEND, Jason Kehl!Find more from Jason here:InstagramReal Climbing [YouTube]Hueco GuidebookHold ShapingGym Design HYPE ReelSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jul 24, 2023 • 2h 9min

#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections

Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week.The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit and will help you get to where you want to go.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jul 17, 2023 • 2h 2min

#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”

David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more…On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?!In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so strong, tips on how you can do the same, as well as a peek behind the scenes on what it looks like to be part of the Mellow crew where he is developing new areas and hard boulders in Tahoe, Yosemite, and more. He also shares the process of editing “A Little Life” and what it was like working with the top talent in our industry to bring about one of the best films of the year. Don’t miss this one!!Find David on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dv_fitzgerald/Join Tim and Josh on July 19th @ 7pm PST for a Live Classroom / AMA! Available to Patreon supporters (LFG!). Sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/TESTPIECESupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jul 10, 2023 • 1h 45min

#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1

The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku.And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their takes.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jul 3, 2023 • 2h 6min

#53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World

Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”. And during this podcast you’ll see why. Jon is introspective, open minded, and relentlessly puts in the work. Join us while he shares how he has figured out how to send hard, and what he has learned from the all star crew he has spent the last 15+ years traveling and climbing with.You also don’t want to miss his wild stories of dirtbagging around Europe and all of the amazing places he’s visited. Saying Jon is well traveled is an understatement. Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jun 26, 2023 • 1h 53min

#52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)

Learn how to coach yourself when no one is around. Understand the importance of self-analysis, using video and questions to improve. Discover the benefits of seeking feedback from friends. Explore the challenge of self-analysis and the usefulness of video analysis. Uncover techniques to reach holds on the Moonboard and minimize climbing swings.
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Jun 19, 2023 • 2h 20min

#51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next

You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much.Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has done it all — climbed extremely hard boulders, developed new areas, route set at an international level, and spent time with the best climbers in the world.These experiences mean Jamie has a lot to share. Don’t miss this one.You can find Jamie's guidebooks linked below:RMNP BoulderingMount Evans BoulderingOn KAYAMount Evans BoulderingLincoln Lake BoulderingGuanella Pass BoulderingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jun 12, 2023 • 1h 53min

#50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’

 Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world?  Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it. So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori. PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1RSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
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Jun 5, 2023 • 1h 52min

#49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Surviving Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore

You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing!We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on what’s being said behind the scenes and give his take. His ‘hot takes’! And he has a lot of them...So tune in and listen to someone who is finally saying what we were all already thinking.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

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