

The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books

Sep 11, 2023 • 2h 16min
#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere.He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport.In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned.He also shares for the first time publicly why he isn’t competing in the upcoming Olympics, and his thoughts on whether or not competition is something he will pursue in the future. Topics include: Nationals vs WC’s vs Olympics, the current WC season, Twitch Streaming, the “Power of Psyche”, proper excitement levels when competing, his outdoor bucket list, and so so much more!NOTES / LINKS:KendamaNathaniel's TwitchGrand IllusionDefying GravityPower of PsycheDry Canyon Series (Lee Majors FA + $6mm Man Proj)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

12 snips
Sep 4, 2023 • 1h 54min
#62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Reflections [Eric Jerome]
Eric Jerome, Past Guest Reflections, joins Tim and Josh to discuss the current state of climbing training and how to get better at climbing. They explore the challenges and rewards of extended coaching, the benefits of training on walls with different angles, the evolution of climbing media, and the importance of unlocking new movements and prioritizing the mental game in climbing.

Aug 28, 2023 • 2h 19min
#61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA
Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA. But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to climb the best boulders?! First Eric had to answer the question “What makes one boulder better than another?”Join us on this journey as we dive deep into the origin of the “Star” system, and how to apply it. Then go to Eric’s website: Top100 to see the best boulders, and follow along on his YouTube while he travels the country trying to climb these boulders and better understand what makes a boulder good.NOTES:Max Zolotuhkin's ArticleEric's Top100 WebsiteEric's YouTubeThe Revenant Video (V15), 6 StarsPromised Land Video (V11/12)"Schelling Point"Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Aug 21, 2023 • 2h 5min
#60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]
Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning how to know where to look for efficiencies in the micro is hard. Tim and Josh try to demystify this process and show how to figure out where to eek out tiny bits of help in order to unlock that seemingly impossible crux move.Oh ya, and there’s lots of normal banter and general psyche that all of the episodes start out with. Enjoy!NOTES:Sam Richards climbing V15 at age 15Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Aug 14, 2023 • 2h 44min
#59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Love
An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper into training than most.Tune in to:Hear amazing stories from the legendary training center / “The Shop” at the Tension HQ. This is where the strongest in America get stronger, and has been visited by anyone that’s anyone while traveling through CO.Find out what Will has learned by training alongside the greats, and how he has integrated what makes them special into his own climbing.Know more about how a company like Tension has become so successful and what it takes to put out amazing products.And just so so so much more. Didn’t we already tell you that it was EPIC?!NOTES:Tension Climbing WebsiteTension Board 2 VideoJoshua Waitzin Podcast w/ Tim FerrissWill's Articles Mentioned:FoundationsHangboarding: A WayMESHUGGAH - BleedQuotes:“Find what you love and let it kill you.” — Charles Bukowski“Don’t seek to follow in the footsteps of great people. Seek what they sought.” — Zen Master BashoJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Aug 7, 2023 • 2h 11min
#58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]
Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom. (Join them next month by signing up on Patreon!)The podcast closes with a discussion about board climbing and why so many climbers gravitate towards them instead normal gym climbs. It’s a surprising part of the indoor scene and there’s lessons to be learned from the phenomenon.NOTESJakob Schubert’s epic Mallorca video that was brought up: https://youtu.be/YOCwtzqZXWUJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jul 31, 2023 • 1h 42min
#57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More
This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution!But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his FA’s, or climbed on a gym wall he’s designed, or grabbed a grip he shaped. Yes, he’s that prolific.Tune in and hear more from the absolute LEGEND, Jason Kehl!Find more from Jason here:InstagramReal Climbing [YouTube]Hueco GuidebookHold ShapingGym Design HYPE ReelJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jul 24, 2023 • 2h 9min
#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections
Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week.The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit and will help you get to where you want to go.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jul 17, 2023 • 2h 2min
#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”
David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more…On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?!In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so strong, tips on how you can do the same, as well as a peek behind the scenes on what it looks like to be part of the Mellow crew where he is developing new areas and hard boulders in Tahoe, Yosemite, and more. He also shares the process of editing “A Little Life” and what it was like working with the top talent in our industry to bring about one of the best films of the year. Don’t miss this one!!Find David on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dv_fitzgerald/Join Tim and Josh on July 19th @ 7pm PST for a Live Classroom / AMA! Available to Patreon supporters (LFG!). Sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/TESTPIECEJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Jul 10, 2023 • 1h 45min
#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1
The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku.And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their takes.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE