The Testpiece Podcast #118 Ward Byrum — Setting Climbs For Tens of Thousands of Climbers, What Makes A Climb Good, Indoor vs Outdoor Grades, and What A ‘Testpiece’ is at Movement Gyms
Sep 30, 2024
Ward Byrum, Director of Routesetting for Movement gyms, shares his extensive knowledge of indoor climbing. He discusses the art and science of route setting, emphasizing its role in shaping climbers' experiences. Ward reflects on the evolution of climbing gyms and culture, contrasting U.S. and Japanese approaches. He covers the complexities of grading climbs, highlighting inclusivity and the importance of tailored experiences. The conversation also explores the balance between aesthetics, functionality, and the transformative impact of climbing on beginners.
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Ward's Climbing Origin Story
- Ward Byrum's climbing journey began with trees and telephone poles, followed by a university climbing wall.
- Inspired by the wall, he bought gear and joined the university climbing club.
Ward's Career Path
- Ward's career includes instructing, retail buying, wall installation, and gym management in Bermuda.
- He transitioned to full-time route setting with Planet Granite around 2007.
Indoor Climbing's First Generation
- Indoor climbing is still in its first generation, with few setters having retired after a full career.
- The sport's rapid growth makes it challenging to fully grasp its evolution.