The Testpiece Podcast
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Latest episodes
May 13, 2024 • 1h 56min
#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake
Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.SHOW NOTES:Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding PresentSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
May 6, 2024 • 2h 13min
#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure
Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.SHOW NOTES:Multiverse FA by Jimmy WebbThe Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel DavisonSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Apr 29, 2024 • 1h 58min
#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.SHOW NOTES:Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam OndraMichaela KierschHuecoEra VellaTick ListAidan Robert’s On New V17’s?No Edge ShoesSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Apr 22, 2024 • 2h 12min
#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
Palmer Larsen, a top coach, discusses fostering success through deliberate practice, coaching challenges, and predicting climbers for the Paris 2024 Olympics. Emphasizes effort over outcomes, autonomy in coaching, and the value of consistent practice. Touches on Timoa's performance, the scoring system in climbing, and selecting the right equipment for improved performance.
Apr 15, 2024 • 1h 52min
#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!!$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now! SHOW NOTES: Devilution by Shawn RaboutouElias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)Dana White on Lex FridmanSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Apr 8, 2024 • 2h 9min
#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14! She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbsCampusing on the 4mm’sSolving a Rubik’s Cube while hangingJerry Moffat’s book MastermindKeenan Takahashi Testpiece PodcastFLOAT TrailerCircle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Apr 1, 2024 • 1h 48min
#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.SHOW NOTES:GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Mar 25, 2024 • 2h 24min
#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World
That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Mar 18, 2024 • 1h 40min
#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!
The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.SHOW NOTES:Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing ScarfaceSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Mar 11, 2024 • 2h 30min
#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors
Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.The way to avoid, and deal with, injury.What the big differences are between training indoors and outdoors and what to learn from it.This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him!SHOW NOTES:Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
